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Scoring Vintage Project Jeeps - Early Iron AddictEarly Iron Addict From the March, 2010 issue of Jp By Christian Hazel Photography by Christian Hazel
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Everybody loves an old Jeep. We mean everybody. Want proof? Go park a lifted, blinged-out TJ in a conspicuous location and then put a ratty, plain flatfender next to it. Twice as many people will go nose around and stick their heads under the flattie as even glance at the TJ. With this magnetic draw, you'd think vintage Jeep projects would fetch a premium price. After all, a basket case '55-'57 Chevy will set you back at least $5,000. And any '40s car or '60s Mustang can't be had in rolling condition for less than $2,000. So your days of picking up $500 Jeep projects must be over, right? Wrong. You can still find killer deals on vintage Toledo tin if you know where to look, where not to look, what to look out for, and what to avoid. Although the main thrust of this story is about CJs, the same principles hold true for Jeepsters, wagons, and pickups. Now get out there and score a vintage Jeep project before they all get turned into soda cans in the next cash for clunkers fiasco. Tips of the Trade
We get this a lot. "How do you guys score such killer deals?" Well, it's not always what you know, as how prepared you may be. A vintage Jeep project is rarely going to be road-worthy, may need some work to even get it on a trailer, and sometimes requires some creative financing to beat out other potential buyers. Here are some tips to help make sure you're the one toting home that next lump of greasy iron. 1. Have a trailer and tow rig ready to go. It's helpful if you have a winch on your trailer or at least have a Hi-Lift jack you can use to help you load a non-running vehicle. If it's down to you and your trailer or another potential buyer with no way of removing the project Jeep, guess who the owner is going to cut the better deal? 2. If you don't have a trailer, make sure your AAA or other towing membership is in good order and the company you're hiring can pick up your new purchase for you. 3. If you're serious about buying, keep your cash handy. Hide it in your house or somewhere safe in case that killer deal pops up when the banks are closed. Having your cash at hand also helps ensure you're the first one to the prize. 4. Bring along a compressor or Powertank to air up flat tires, a selection of hand tools, some lube spray, and whatever else you may need to loosen seized brake shoes, reaffix steering components, or inflate flat tires so you can move and/or drive your new pile away. 5. Be flexible. This can mean anything from meeting the seller after their 2nd shift job lets them off work after midnight or being willing to take away extra junk parts. However, more often than not it means conceding certain parts of sentimental value that the seller may not want to let go of, such as vanity plates, shift knobs, or even seats, wheels, or other trinkets. Where to Shop
You can scour your local paper for decades and won't see even a fraction of the goodies available through some of these sites. If you're looking for vintage tin, check these avenues first.
Web Sites:
autotraderclassics.com
craigslist.com
earlycj5.com
ebay.com
jeepaholics.com
jeepsunlimited.com
jpmagazine.com
g503.com
hemmings.com
pirate4x4.com
recycler.com
searchtempest.com
willystech.com
Print:
Local newspaper (rarely, but it
does happen)
Recycler/Auto Trader
Hemmings Motor News
Local:
Any back alley, yard, gas station, or barn you happen to spot a 7- or 9-slat grille poking out of. Don't be afraid to stop and ask. Everything is for sale at the right price.  All '71-earlier CJ and many...  All '71-earlier CJ and many other vintage Jeeps used this antiquated Ross cam and lever steering setup. There are two things to watch out for regarding vintage Jeep steering. First is severe slop in the stock cam and lever end links, steering box, sector shaft, or bellcrank. The second is scary owner-fabricated Saginaw conversions that retrofit a manual or power steering box to the framerail. Few steering conversions we've seen are done well and even fewer stock cam and lever systems are in good order. Either way, point out the spookiness to the seller and let the asking price drop.  Surprisingly few vintage Jeeps...  Surprisingly few vintage Jeeps have survived the decades without a repower of some sort. Although '66-'71 CJs could be had factory-equipped with a Buick 225, many flatties and early CJs have been repowered by Buick 225 V-6 or Chevy or Ford V-8 engines. If upgraded power is what you're after and a factory V-6 vehicle doesn't surface, many of these engine conversions are competently done and can save you some money and hassle with your project. Back in the day it was more common to use a conversion bellhousing or a bellhousing adapter to mate the new engine to the factory Jeep transmission, but with the selection of adapters nowadays, it's increasingly easy to swap in a new transmission if the factory gearbox has had it.  Although not crucial for a...  Although not crucial for a trail buildup, if you're looking for an old MB, GPW, M-38, M38A1, or other military vehicle to restore, pay attention to the dash, brass data plates, and other hard-to-find items like glovebox doors, jerrycan holders, and so on. Chopped, cut, and butchered panels are a bummer to repair or replace because the aftermarket parts are rarely of the same thickness and quality as the originals. Likewise, reproduction brass data plates will lack the proper patina and are expensive to purchase. If you find a complete example like Don Allen's M38A1 (pictured), keep your enthusiasm under your hat and try to point out the vehicle's faults to the seller, rather than yelling out, "Wow, cool! I scored on this one!"  See what extras the seller...  See what extras the seller may have laying around that they're willing to throw into the deal...  ...Even if you don't use them,...  ...Even if you don't use them, you can sell them online at several of the websites highlighted in the sidebar, "Where to Shop."  You'll want to take a good,...  You'll want to take a good, hard look at the frame and undercarriage to spot any existing or repaired frame cracks, check for bashed crossmembers, missing driveshafts, clutch or brake pedal components, or anything that looks bent, broken, or out of place. Missing or mangled items that may prove hard-to-find or expensive-to-replace, such as fuel tanks, radiators, hoods, and windshield frames, are good items to use to haggle down the price.  Don't get hung up on a ratty...  Don't get hung up on a ratty interior, broken gauges, or missing or beat up seats. Jeep interiors are cheap and easy to repair or replace. As long as the major components are present, like the steering column, pedal assemblies, and seat frames, the rest is gravy to replace or upgrade.  Unless you're looking to swap...  Unless you're looking to swap drivetrains right off the bat, pay close attention to the condition of the engine, transmission, T-case, and axles. Considering it costs as much to rebuild a Jeep L- or F-head four-cylinder as it does to rebuild a Chevy V-8, making sure the engine you start with is in good shape and is worth the effort. At the very least, pull the dipstick and check for water in the oil. Hardcore buyers may want to pull the drain plugs in the tranny and T-case to check for water as well. You can usually just remove the fill plugs in the axles and check fluid condition and level with a flashlight or your finger.  Resist focusing in on one...  Resist focusing in on one or two key components that may inflate the price but that could easily be added to another candidate that can be had for less money. Sure, the Jeep you're considering may have a vintage Warn Overdrive or a PTO winch attached to it, but if the rest of the vehicle is a total pile, it may make more sense to buy a candidate in better shape without these parts and add them later. You'd be surprised at how many PTOs and Overdrives there are kicking around for sale on the Internet for around $500.
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