When the XJ Cherokee came out back in 1983 as an ’84 model, it was a turd. With an optional 2.8L V-6 barely putting out 10 more horsepower than the base 2.5L four-cylinder there really wasn’t a great engine to talk about. It was the first Jeep without a real frame and it had goofy square headlights. The fact that it had no removable top wouldn’t have been an issue if the windows were big enough to let any air in. Fortunately, it had those vent windows that made it really easy to break into.
Looking back on it though, the XJ was manufactured for 18 years, and with over 2,800,000 of them built, they are easy to find and cheap to buy. The 101-inch wheelbase means it has a great ride and is the envy of many short-wheelbase Jeep owners. The front coil/rear leaf suspension architecture works very well and provides great platform to build from.
We didn’t mention the bumpers...
We didn’t mention the bumpers because you can beat on and mangle the factory bumpers for a long time before they fall off. However, you can’t beat your factory rockers and/or doors for too long before you can’t get in and out of the Jeep. Look for rockers with tubes that will help protect your doors. Whether they weld on like this DIY kit from GenRight Off Road, or bolt on to the pinch seam such as kits from Rusty’s Off-Road, Rocky Road Outfitters, or T&T Customs, you will want something to protect this long expanse of real estate.
They make good platforms for both prerunners and rockcrawlers and there really isn’t any one right way to build them. However, we’ve accumulated a lot of information on builds that work. Here are a few tips and tricks we’ve picked up along the way.
The front suspension is the...
The front suspension is the same as a TJ and ZJ, so a lot of parts from those Jeeps will work in an XJ. A TJ coil spring will yield a bit less lift in an XJ because the drivetrain is further forward in an XJ than a TJ. However, a V-8 ZJ Grand Cherokee spring will yield about 1-inch lift in an XJ, but with no fender trimming, you will need about 6 inches of lift just to clear 33-inch tires. The control arms are good to about 3 or 4 inches of lift. After that, the angle at rest is too great and will lead to poor handling and ride characteristics. At that lift height you will either need drop brackets or long arms to get the ride and articulation you want. Shown are Rubicon Express drop brackets.
Out back, the factory leaf...
Out back, the factory leaf springs are notorious for sagging. If you are on a budget, it is easy to cobble together a spring pack that will work well and resist axlewrap. The Cherokee leaf springs are 2 1/2 inches wide, so many later model pickups can donate leafs to build an at-home custom pack. Look at small trucks like the Comanche, Dakota, Durango, S-10, and Ranger. Keep the factory XJ main leaf and throw the rest of the stock stuff out. Make sure the second leaf is as close to the same length as the Cherokee main leaf as possible. If you’ve got a bit more cash, we really like the Old Man Emu springs. If you want to convert to spring-under, both Alcan and Deaver are good choices and have lots of XJ experience.
If you are building an XJ,...
If you are building an XJ, get comfortable with cutting sheetmetal. Up front you can gain 2 inches of clearance and out back you can get about 1-inch before getting into the pinch seam. Cutting the pinch seam isn’t the end of the world, as long as you are comfortable with welding sheetmetal back together. Or, cut the spot welds and fold the seams inward. A set of four rear TJ flares will work well with a lower-than-pinch-seam trim job. Shown here is an Iceland Off-Road fiberglass flare with a pinch-trim-and-weld job. Rusty’s Off-Road also offers flexible flares that can work with just about any trim job.
The Unitbody makes the XJ...
The Unitbody makes the XJ light, but it also contributes to the “throwaway” reputation. The fact is that if you wheel the Jeep hard, you will start fatiguing the metal. Eventually every wheeling trip will result in new cracks and doors and body panels that don’t line up anymore. Unitbody stiffeners to help counter this are available from many aftermarket companies, such as Rusty’s Off-Road, T&J Performance, Roc Dog Fab, and Ruff Stuff Specialties. Shown is a T&T Customs stiffener installed on a ’98 Cherokee.
Most XJs left the factory...
Most XJs left the factory with no belly, rocker, or gas tank skidplates. One good wheeling trip and its likely you will be killing vital components. While the XJ was available from the factory with an “Up Country” or “Off Road” package that included skidplates, they are only 1⁄8-inch-thick. And, if you’ve got a late model XJ, good luck finding the gas tank skid. One of the first parts we put on this XJ was the T&T Customs belly skid. Also note the GenRight Off Road gas tank (with skidplate). Both parts are 3⁄16-inch-thick steel and allowed us to drag the Jeep over a lot of obstacles.
If tight trees or rocks are...
If tight trees or rocks are in your XJ’s future, your taillights and rear quarter windows are going to be in grave danger. Take precautions. If you get your corner sheetmetal into something, the rear quarter window will almost always pop out giving you new rear A/C. And, usually when you get the rear quarter, the taillight eats it too. Shown is a modified set of JcrOffroad corners, which helps both issues. The formed 3⁄16-inch-thick steel helps keep the windows in, and the light provision means no more scrounging the junkyard for replacements.