Finally we found the answer: The Rock Crawler Hood built by 4 Wheelers Supply and Campbell Enterprises for TJs, CJs, and YJs. This hood is a fiberglass replacement hood with high-clearance miniature fenders molded right in. By combining the fiberglass hood with the supplied steel triangle fenderettes and a bit of fabrication, we would end up with a Wrangler with much more front-tire clearance. Also, the Jeep would still have the all-important front fenders to keep the cops off our backs.
You also need to stabilize the grille and radiator support. We built two small brackets that bolt to the grille and factory holes in the frame. We also used two polyurethane bushings we had on hand so the grille and radiator could still move a bit independently of the frame.
After a quick call to 4 Wheelers Supply in Phoenix, Arizona, our hood was on its way, and we began tearing our TJ apart. The first thing you'll notice after opening a TJ's hood is that the inner fenders do more than just deflect mud and water away from your engine. They also hold many important gadgets like the battery, fuse block, windshield-wiper reservoir, vacuum canister, charcoal canister, and air-intake box. All of these goodies are going to have to be relocated and firmly mounted to the Jeep's frame.
To do this, we built a series of brackets assembled with some square tubing, plate steel, drills and taps, a grinder, our Hobart 175 MIG welder, and a few of the bolts that came off the stock fenders. There are hundreds of ways you could relocate these parts. We did so by first building a baseplate out of steel for the component, then welding this to a piece of tubing which extends down to the frame or the shock/spring tower where a piece of plate steel could be bolted on. By bolting our brackets on, we can easily remove them for service or take them off if we ever want to reinstall the Jeep's factory fenders and hood.
We also had to do something to stabilize the grille, which was pretty shaky once we removed the fenders. To isolate it, and the radiator, we built two small brackets. These brackets use factory holes on the grille and the frame along with two polyurethane bushings. The bushings allow the grille to float independently as the frame flexes and the grille/radiator moves.
Finally, we used some 11/2-inch round DOM tubing to make a stout pedestal that holds a sealed Optima BlueTop Marine battery. This bracket bolts to the frame and the shock tower. It then attaches with a few bolts to our 4 Wheelers Supply battery box, which firmly grabs the battery. This combination of parts allows us to lay the battery on its side and tuck it up and as far under the hood as possible. We also love the deep-cycle BlueTop Optima because you can easily add auxiliary wiring to the two threaded terminals on top. The deep-cycle BlueTops are perfect for high-draw items like off-road lights or winches.
Once the hood and fenderettes arrived at the freight depot, we ran down to pick 'em up. It's important to check the crate for any damage before you accept the hood from the shipper. Oftentimes shipping a large item like a hood can be damaging. The shipping company is responsible for any damage.
To install the new hood, we made a steel template of the factory hood hinge to act as a drill guide on the Rock Crawler hood. Once our new hood was drilled, we laid it on the Jeep and lined up the hinges. We then used some new-grade five bolts, some big-fender washers, and some locknuts to secure the hood to the factory hinges. 4 Wheelers Supply also sent us a set of AutoFab hood pins to hold the Rock Crawler hood closed. We drilled out the holes that hold the Jeep's original spreader bars, which run from the firewall to the grille, and mounted our hood pins there.
We made a steel template of the factory hinge plate so that drilling in our Rock Crawler hood would be clean and easy. Then we attached the hood with new bolts, big fender washers, and some steel locknuts so the bolts won't wiggle loose and damage the hood. The new fiberglass hood is very light and durable. | 
Our plan was to mount the battery up and under our Rock Crawler hood on its side . For this, we knew we needed a spill-proof Optima Battery. It has no problem being mounted on its side or even upside down. We secured the Optima with this sweet steel-plate battery holder from 4 Wheelers Supply. |
Constructing these brackets is fairly straightforward. We made some baseplates that the underhood parts could be bolted to, then we mounted them to the frame and/or spring/shock towers with some tubing, our Hobart 175 MIG welder, and a few bolts. If you don't have a welder, you might be able to make these brackets Erector Set-style or have someone weld them together for you. | |