Sometimes a deal is too good to pass up. Well, it probably wasn’t that good of a deal. Maybe we bought this Jeep because of all of those late night dreams of wheeling an early CJ-5. Maybe it’s because it’s good karma to take a Jeep that no one else wants and bring it back from the dead. Maybe it’s because after growing up on the east coast (where rust is a rule) it’s still absolutely mind-blowing that no one in Arizona seems to see the value of original, almost-complete, un-rusted, desert-patina’d sheetmetal. Any way you justify it, building a vintage Jeep from the ground up in this economy is not a great way to make any money. Actually, it’s probably a great way to end up with a Jeep that is worth less than the sum of its parts. It’s still fun and in the end we will have a very different early CJ-5 with a reliable drivetrain, bulletproof frame, and a more modern suspension that’s ready to drive practically anywhere on- or off-road.
We drew up the simple framerails...
We drew up the simple framerails and decided on materials. We picked up 2x4, 0.120-wall tubing for the front and rear framerails, 2x4, 0.188-wall tubing for the center framerails and bumpers, and some cold-rolled 4x11, 3⁄16-inch plate cut at a 45-degree angle for gussets. TJ frames are bent out of 2x4, 0.120-wall tubing so our frame will be just as strong, if not stronger, and much, much, stronger than the ’56’s original C-channel frame—all without the use of an expensive mandrel bender.
The project started with an Internet ad for an almost complete ’56 CJ-5 body with a VIN plate and a title. The good news is that the body is really clean. The bad news is that all the little missing hardware is gonna nickel and dime us to death!
In this installment we’ll assemble our homebuilt frame and mount the body. In an upcoming installment we’ll toss in a 2.5L fuel-injected motor, five-speed tranny, NV231 T-case, a Dana 30 front axle, and a Chrysler Corporate 8.25 rear axle—all from a wrecked ’98 Cherokee SE.
The steel supply shop was...
The steel supply shop was kind enough to cut the 4x11, 3⁄16-inch plate into 45-degree angled gussets that when drilled for rosette welds will add lots of strength to the places where the rectangular framerail pieces are stacked and spliced together. The two frame halves are put together with the front and rear bumpers/crossmembers.
For the rear mounts we used...
For the rear mounts we used 3⁄8-inch plate steel which is welded at the rear bumper. Just like on the rest of the body, Daystar pucks are used here as well.
We used scrap bits of the...
We used scrap bits of the leftover rectangular tubing cut at a 45-degree angle to make body mounts. They were located using the body and then welded to the side of the frame.
We added urethane pucks from...
We added urethane pucks from Daystar (PN KJ04001BK) to give the body a suitable home atop the frame on our scrap-cut body mounts. Secure the body with at least Grade 5 bolts and large washers.
The grille support is made...
The grille support is made of another scrap bit of rectangular tubing, a Daystar puck, and a crossmember made from 13⁄4-inch, 0.120-wall DOM tubing.
A quick call to Mountain Off...
A quick call to Mountain Off Road Enterprises (M.O.R.E.) led us directly to a full-width, shackle reversal axle installation kit (PN 7686-FWK25). This is perfect for swapping a relatively wide XJ front axle under a narrow CJ-5 early/intermediate frame. As you can see, this kit includes all the bits we needed and more so we can eventually hang some YJ springs under the frame.
M.O.R.E. knew that our application...
M.O.R.E. knew that our application would be custom so the company sent us an unassembled, un-painted kit so we could burn the parts together as we saw fit on the CJ-5.
The rear spring pivot mounts...
The rear spring pivot mounts were cut from a scrap piece of 31⁄2x31⁄2, 0.250-wall square tubing. YJ springs and bushings fit right in our homemade mounts.
Our rear shackle hangers are...
Our rear shackle hangers are fabricated out of some scrap bits of rectangular tubing and 13⁄4-inch, 0.250-wall round tubing that is 21⁄2 inches long. You could also use prefabricated M.O.R.E. components (PN 7686RSH-25-YJ). Add in a set of small YJ urethane spring shackle bushings from Daystar (PN MO2221) and you are ready for shackles.