Got a Quick Question? We've Got a Quick Answer!
Your Quick Question:
I have a CJ-7 with Scout Dana 44s. I purchased a six-lug front Dana 44 from a Wagoneer for the flat-top knuckles ($50). Is there any way to use the flat-top knuckles and still keep the 5-on-5 1/2 bolt pattern that my Scout hubs have?
Jp's Quick Answer:
Yep, we would take the flat tops and pop them on the axle on your Jeep, then use the Wagoneer spindle and stub shafts. Also use the Waggy caliper brackets and calipers, then use the Waggy wheel bearings with '78-'79 Ford F-150 4x4 hubs, rotors, and wheel seals. Top it off with the Waggy locking hubs and you get a 5-on-5 1/2 lug pattern with stronger hubs than the Scout and flat-top knuckles.
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Your Quick Question:
I have an '02 Wrangler X for a little over a year. I want to put bigger tires on to give it a more rugged look but I'm not sure what would be the best size. I bought a 2-inch suspension lift from Skyjacker, which consists of four shocks, bumpstop extenders, and four 2-inch coil spring spacers. Could you please tell me how long a 4x4 shop should take to install this lift and do a frontend alignment? Also, what would be the best size tire to use with this lift, 32x11.50 or 33x12.50? This Jeep is a daily driver and will never see off-road use. I don't want to have to change my gearing, as I can't afford the $1000 labor. I keep getting mixed opinions--some shops say to go with the 33s and others say to go with the 32s. Is there really that much difference, and which one would be better for the street?
Jp's Quick Answer:
Go with 32s for several reasons: They'll fit better and suck less power; they'll fit on stock wheels; they are only a tad shorter; and they are lighter. All this makes a difference to the inline-six. The labor depends on what shop you take it too. With a tow adjustment, we would suspect $250-$350.
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Your Quick Question:
I wasn't sure if the Wrangler spring conversion on a Flatfender was worth the effort. Also, I have planned to re-gear to 4.27:1; I just wasn't sure if the housing tubes were OK. Seems that the newer Dana 44s have thicker tubes, especially if made from a front 44 of a Cherokee/Wagoneer.
Jp's Quick Answer:
For a real flexy suspension upgrade we'd say the spring-over with Wrangler springs is good, especially if you can do all the work yourself. We're assuming you have an early-model Jeep (pre-'76).
True about the tubes. If it's been beat on real hard, the small, early Dana 44 axle tubes will bend. There are many different thicknesses of Dana 44 axle tubes--some of the thickest are on 3/4-ton GMs and wide-track Wagoneers. All of them will work fine though; just look for an overall tube diameter of 2 3/4 inches.
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Your Quick Question:
I am going to be buying a Jeep in a couple months and am wondering which would be right for me. I'm only 16 and don't have a big budget but my parents are willing to help me by taking out a loan and then I pay it off. I was debating between either a TJ or a CJ and could use any help you'll give me. I like the look of the CJ more but also like the modern upgrades that the TJ offers. Would it be better to buy a TJ, which costs more, or buy a CJ and then bolt on all the better parts of a TJ like fuel injection and so on?
Jp's Quick Answer
In the long run, a low-mileage TJ will be much more reliable, especially if you want this Jeep to be a daily driver. CJs need a lot of work and ones that don't are often very expensive.
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Your Quick Question:
I installed a BDS 3-inch lift and 2-inch coil spacers on my '97 TJ. Now it wanders all over the road. I had a reputable shop do an alignment on it but it didn't help. Any suggestions? I ordered Energy sway bar bushings and have yet to put them in. I also have a vibration that I think is coming from the driveline. I recently had new Spicer U-joints installed in both the front and rear driveshafts and then had them balanced. Again, any suggestions?
Jp's Quick Answer:
Stacking the lifts may seem like a cheap way to get more height but there are a lot of other parts required when you lift a TJ 5 inches.
The vibration is probably from the rear driveshaft if you don't have a slip-yoke eliminator kit and CV driveshaft. We suspect the stock one is binding with the 5 inches of lift. As for the wandering, check the track bar. Could be that the bushings are worn or the hardware is loose. With that much lift you should replace it with an aftermarket unit. Also it could be that the caster is wrong. We don't believe the BDS arms are adjustable, so by adding the 2-inch spacers you probably lost caster in your steering. This will cause it to wander and not return to center very well.
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Your Quick Question:
I am "resto rodding" a '53 utility wagon and am upgrading the axles to newer 44s. I understand that most--if not all--44 open knuckles are interchangeable. I need to keep the pumpkin on the passenger side and want to keep the track near stock width. It appears that a '74-'79 Wagoneer front end is what would work the best. I own two Ford pickups and a '46 2A and all have 5-on-5-1/2 wheels, and over the years I have amassed quite a collection of wheels! The Wagoneer front ends I've looked at all have 6-on-5-1/2 wheels. So here's the question: What knuckles can I use to get a 5-on-5-1/2 bolt pattern, or can I change the spindles and hubs? I want to keep/use disc brakes, and parts availability is important. In my search I believe Scout, Ford and some Dodges use 5-on-5-1/2 patterns.
Jp's Quick Answer:
It's an easy swap. You'll need bearing hubs and rotors (Pep Boys PN 66297) from a '78-'79 Ford F-150 4x4 (possibly later models too) and wheel seals (PN 24917). You can use your knuckles, spindles, stub shafts, wheel bearings, locking hubs, calipers, brake pads, and so on with this setup.
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