10 Ways To Get Your Jack Working - Hi-Lift Hi-Jinx

They're everywhere off-road, and rightly so. Whether strapped to the rollcage, wedged under the hood, proudly mounted to the bumper, or god forbid, just tossed in the back free to flop around, the Hi-Lift jack is one of those off-road tools you'll find in just about any rig. They can save your bacon in any number of ways, but we're not here just to provide strokage.

While they're a bitchin' tool to have, they can sometimes be frustrating to operate. They can temporarily stick, not release, not lower, not raise, and just not cooperate in general. So the next time you see a guy on the trail beating his Hi-Lift like a hippie at a David Allen Coe concert, feel free to saunter over and share some of these tips.

The major parts of the running gear that operate the Hi-Lift are the large runner (top where the handle mounts), the small runner, the climbing pins, and the reversing latch. And they can all get sticky from rust, dirt, infrequent use, or side loading. The most common way to get everything moving and working is to drizzle a little water, soda, or whatever fluid you may be carrying on or in your person.	Even with no weight on the jack, the reversing latch can be a stubborn mule. Usually a good, swift kick with the heel of your foot is enough to get it moving.	If your jack is really old, really stubborn, or if you're one of those fruity guys still wearing sandals on the trail, pick up a big rock and go caveman on the reversing latch. The rock is nice because it's equally good at opening and closing the latch since they tend to hang up whether they're being raised or lowered.
Don't forget to periodically give your jack a once over. Here you see how the nut has backed off the handle socket bolt. There's a possibility that with no nut holding it in place, the bolt can worm its way out and strike the reverse latch pin, sending the loaded jack zinging downward. You could put a small tack weld on the nut, or replace the bolts with slightly longer ones that will work with a castle or Nylok nut.	Newer Hi-Lifts are powdercoated for corrosion resistance and, in our opinion, added annoyance. We prefer the old-school painted steel ones since the powdercoating can make the running gear seem to stick to the steel bar (jack body). Once the powdercoat has a few good uses under its belt, it'll inevitably start peeling like this one. We're gonna strip this 60-inch model to bare steel one of these days.	This tip isn't so much for improving the use of your Hi-Lift as it is for retaining the use of your arms and legs. The climbing pins are equipped with sheer pins that index the large and small runners and prevent the Hi-Lift from being overloaded to the point where the steel bar can severely bend or snap. Some guys will replace these sheer pins with hardened bolts. Don't, since it's a recipe for disaster. If you break your pins, replacements are available at Hi-Lift's Web site.
Although it will attract dirt in a jack mounted outside the vehicle, it's still a good idea to periodically lube any and all moving parts. We usually pull our jack apart and give the pin bores a light sanding to remove any rust buildup and then lube the jack up with a good penetrating oil, but anything from vegetable oil to moly-based lube works well. Hell, the Hi-Lift has been around for over 100 years and there was no WD-40 when it was invented.	Aside from the fact that it can literally kill you in the event of a rollover or violent maneuver, not strapping down your jack will increase the number of nicks, dings, and scratches inflicted on the powdercoating of the steel bar. It's a good idea to build or buy a secure mount to keep your jack and handle securely in place.	There are two schools of thought on this, but the official word from Hi-Lift is that the company does not recommend the use of a jack handle extension to increase jacking leverage with overly heavy loads. However, if you're too much of a pantywaist to jack up a Hi-Lift's 4,660-pound capacity with the supplied handle, you can use a cheater bar slipped either inside or outside the handle to increase leverage.
If nothing seems to help, it may be time to rebuild your Hi-Lift. The company offers a Fix-It-Kit that includes new climbing pins with springs, new sheer pins, and a new handle bolt and nut. It's a great way to get your jack working like new in just a couple minutes.