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51 Cheap Tips and TricksSave Your Money, Read Our Story! From the March, 2009 issue of Jp By The JP Magazine Staff
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While you might think that working here in magazine land magically means nothing goes wrong and we always have exactly what we need, you'd be wrong. We can't just put our hand in our pocket and always come out with the exact change for whatever we are buying, nor is there a money tree in the backyard. Being paid in peanuts and attaboys doesn't really fill the old bank account, and whatever money we do get into the account is immediately sucked out again by one of our many project Jeeps. Picture the money you put into keeping one Jeep on the road. Now multiply that by five and you start to feel our pain. What we lack in cash, we make up for with ingenuity and a healthy dose of trial-and-error, which leaves us with a lot of cheap tricks for common problems that we use pretty frequently. So, without further ado, here are 51 of our cheap tricks that will save you both time and money.  Test Light Every cheapie...  Test Light
Every cheapie test light we've ever had died after the first trail run, the internal bulb just isn't up to wheeling. And not all of us have 80 bucks lying around to go and buy a fancy-pants test light. So, what we do when we need a test light, is pull a bulb out of the Jeep, and using some spare wire, hook one end to the battery ground (since we are usually looking for a positive wire) and poke and prod with the other end until we find what we are looking for.  Seal Seater A lot of guys...  Seal Seater
A lot of guys we know just throw scrap tubing and metal in the trash. We keep a Rubbermaid trash can that catches all the little scraps that can be so useful later. One such scrap is this seal seater/ U-joint removal tool made out of some 13/4-inch, 0.120-wall tubing. By keeping the scraps around, when we run into something that we need a special tool for, it costs us nothing to rummage through the trash can and make one.  Twisted Wire It is often...  Twisted Wire
It is often difficult to keep wires under control when adding things to the Jeep. By twisting the wires together that go to a certain component, the installation will look neater, and you will be able to identify what wire goes where if something goes wrong down the line (assuming you twist different colors for different components).  Tiny Hands There are a lot...  Tiny Hands
There are a lot of bolts and nuts that are in places which you just can't physically get to. By stuffing a socket with paper so that just the head of the bolt goes into the socket, and then taping the bolt or nut in, you can get almost any bolt anywhere. It works especially well for inside holes, and around corners that you just can't bend to get around.  Hanging Wire We keep the...  Hanging Wire
We keep the wire clothes hangers from the dry cleaners handy. By unraveling the hanger, and taping a wire to it, you've got what might be the best snake anywhere. This technique works especially well for getting through firewall grommets. Start taping on the hanger and work towards the wire so that whatever you are pulling through doesn't just yank the tape off.  Coloring Time By marking...  Coloring Time
By marking a line across your tire and driving straight down the road, you can determine what the correct tire pressure is for your Jeep. Depending on the weight and configuration of your Jeep, the correct tire pressure for you will likely vary from whatever the sidewall or owner's manual says. By drawing a line across the tread, and adjusting pressure until the whole line wears off uniformly, you can save money by making sure your tires wear evenly. Check them for proper wear and inflation once a month to maximize savings.  Spare Tape We used to spend...  Spare Tape
We used to spend a ton of money on electrical tape. The tape itself is pretty cheap, but the problem was, we'd always need some and not have any on us, resulting in buying a new roll for almost every application. We stopped that by running an extra couple of wraps around the roll bar so that it's always nearby when we need it.  Windshield Strap If you bought...  Windshield Strap
If you bought your Wrangler new, there is a good chance you have this strap. It was included in a bag in the back of two of our last Jeeps. We think it was supposed to be for the top, but we hang it from the footman loop on the windshield, and then always have a tie-down strap with us wherever we go. Sure, it's small, but it's easily reusable and has become one of those things we can't figure out how we did without it before.  Old Hose When you replace...  Old Hose
When you replace your radiator hose, keep the old hose. It comes in great handy for protecting wires and other hoses. Simply cut a length off, slit it up the middle, and zip-tie it onto whatever you want to protect. Make sure the slit is away from whatever might cause the damage.  Writing Tape Keep this one...  Writing Tape
Keep this one in your toolbox. Take some tape and wrap it around a pen. Bic pens work great. This will make it easier to find the pen when you need it, and will ensure you always have some tape handy too. What kind of tape is up to you, we like a variety of electrical and duct so that no matter what tape we need, it is close to hand.  Swiss Army Wrench If you...  Swiss Army Wrench
If you are like us and use the home tools on the trail too, this is an easy way to keep your wrenches in order and not lose them. The clips are about a dollar each, help keep your wrenches organized, make it easier to get the right wrench to the repair on the first time, and pay for themselves the first time you notice that such and such wrench is missing because it's still on the front bumper.  Duct Tape Bolt Holders If...  Duct Tape Bolt Holders
If you are working on the Jeep, be it on the trail or at home, a good way to keep your bolts from rolling away is to double up a length of tape and stick the bolts to it. Obviously, duct tape will hold the bolts best, but also might damage paint. If, like us, you aren't too concerned, duct tape away.  Cure Your Headache We hate...  Cure Your Headache
We hate digging to the bottom of the toolbox or console to find a fuse, electrical connector, washer, or nut. We swipe all the empty Tylenol containers we run across and use them to keep our little parts from falling to the bottom of the tool box or ammo can. While not completely waterproof (if you submerse it for an extended amount of time, it will let water in), it is plenty waterproof enough for our needs and thus keeps things from collecting water and rusting too.  Double Nut For Extra Nut ...  Double Nut For Extra Nut
If you've got a bolt sticking through something with a lot of thread left exposed, you can put an extra nut or two on it. That will keep it from loosening, keep mud and gunk from crudding up the threads, and you'll always have an extra nut incase something works itself loose.  Save It For Later If we have...  Save It For Later
If we have a foot or more of extra wire when we get done wiring something up, we wrap it up, and toss it in the box. The scrap wire we've saved has been used to fix bad sections of wire on the trail, tie things down, and works for the test light tip mentioned earlier in this story.  Welding Binding Wire When...  Welding Binding Wire
When you use up the spool in your welder, don't throw out the extra wire. It can come in handy in a pinch as binding wire. If you've got something hot or something that would cut through a regular rope, use the extra welding tie down. It's great for a temporary fix, but can cutt through hoses and wires over time.  Pepsi Overflow A lot of older...  Pepsi Overflow
A lot of older CJs didn't come with an overflow container at all. In a pinch, a Pepsi bottle or similar makes a decent catch can. It is also something to keep in mind if your existing overflow bites it while out on the trail.  Solenoid Jumper We keep a...  Solenoid Jumper
We keep a length of wire in the toolbox for our CJs that still have the fender-mounted solenoid. Mud, age, dirt, vibration and all kinds of things can cause the solenoid to lock up and not work anymore, leaving you stranded. It is a pain, but with two alligator clips and a piece of wire, you can jump the terminals so that the Jeep starts. Clip it to something under the hood for easy access next time too.  Mighty Mount You can almost...  Mighty Mount
You can almost always find short sections of heavy-wall remnant tubing at your steel supply shop. We scarf up all we can find and keep some handy for fabrication projects. Use a hole saw to pierce the tubing, plate steel, or whatever you're welding the bosses into. The finished result makes for a way stronger mounting point than simply running a bolt through.  Rad Cage Stingers were cool,...  Rad Cage
Stingers were cool, then they went away, then they were cool again, and now they're like Dennis Miller on Monday Night Football. Not a horrible idea, but one that's run its course. But if you still want to protect your radiator in a roll, yank the sheet metal off and build a radiator cage that fits behind the grille. Make the mounts off the cage and you'll have plenty of room to work with by removing the factory radiator mounts in the grille.  Pen Holder Most Jeepers are...  Pen Holder
Most Jeepers are pretty good about carrying spare parts, tools, fluids, and so on. But what about a pen? Sounds pretty stupid, but what if you're trying to hike out and want to leave a note? Or take down that chick's phone number? If you're running a CB, throw a cheapie ball point pen in the coils of the microphone cord. It'll come in handy more than you think.  No Entanglements Sometimes...  No Entanglements
Sometimes during a hard section of trail you may want to leave your winch remote hooked up getting from one obstacle to another. If you're in a CJ, Wrangler, or any Jeep that uses external hood latches, run the controller behind the latch to keep the remote cord from getting tangled around the tire or damaged by trail debris.  Sidewinder Mount If you're...  Sidewinder Mount
If you're running a spill-proof Optima, there's no need to mount it conventionally. Check out the under seat mount we fabbed up using some scrap aluminum and a little bit of 1-inch tubing. This puts the battery out of the way, yet still keeps the terminals handy for jump starting.  Traction Action Lots of people...  Traction Action
Lots of people build their own traction bars, but neither of these examples is ideal. The top one uses a bushing on the shackle end that will bind. The bottom one uses a threaded bung for a rod end, which allows more angularity, however there's no reinforcing between the axle mounts. Both of these would bind and snap. Run a tube vertically between the axle ends and maybe plate the entire inside of the bar. Then run spherical joints at the axle and a rod end at the shackle for optimal flex and resistance to binding.  Quick Lift Most engine hoists...  Quick Lift
Most engine hoists have an adjustable lift arm that can slide in and out telescopically for more lift height or more lifting power. However, it's a pain to break out the 1-inch wrenches to make adjustments. We use a regular old 7/8-inch hitch pin. With a pull of the pin, we can make our adjustments and then get back to yanking drivetrain parts.  These Go To 11 Sometimes...  These Go To 11
Sometimes you just need that little push over the cliff. If you're yanking an engine from a tall vehicle and your hoist just doesn't have enough height to clear the oil pan over the grill, don't unbolt the front clip. Just air down the front tires.  Safe Links If you're using...  Safe Links
If you're using a chain to lift, hoist, or hold any heavy object you've got to realize that unless it's perfectly balanced on the eye hook there's a chance that the unbalanced load can cause the chain to slide through the hook. The keep your engine from sitting vertical on the hoist, use some locking pliers or even a screwdriver through the chain links to prevent it from sliding through the hook.  Taper Caper Ever try to drill...  Taper Caper
Ever try to drill out a tapered steering arm, pitman arm, or steering knuckle to run rod ends? Standard drill bits will grab the sides of the bore and spin your drill around out of your hands hard enough to break your nose. We've found that a chamfering bit doesn't get hung up like a regular drill bit thanks to its extreme taper. They're available in a variety of larger sizes, buzz right through cast iron like butter, and won't break your thumbs.  Bag The Boil Running with...  Bag The Boil
Running with your tires aired down really heats up your power steering fluid. PSC Motorsports, pscmotorsports.com, carries these slick little Derale in-line coolers (PN DER-13253) that come with fittings and mounting hardware. They measure only 12x3 inches, so you can find a mounting spot for them pretty much anywhere. We welded tabs to our winch mount where it's protected and out of the way. They're lightweight and good looking, so you can even bolt them to the bottom of your grille.  Save Your Bumps Most of us...  Save Your Bumps
Most of us run relatively inexpensive poly bumpstops. But if you've done a spring-over the U-bolt plates will chew up the poly in a couple miles of trail riding. We built bumpstop pads off our spring plates to give the poly a smooth contact surface. Just subtract the height of the pad by your overall bumpstop height requirement. Also, check out the 3/4-inch tubing we welded between the bumpstop-to-frame bracket sides to prevent it from mushrooming under a hard hit.  FoMoCo Mounts Looking for...  FoMoCo Mounts
Looking for some cheap shock mounts? Your local Ford dealership has them. These '99-up Super Duty mounts are high grade cast iron and can either be welded or bolted to the frame. The mounts for the '97-older F-250 and F-350 trucks are stamped and formed mild steel, not cast and work equally well. They too can be welded or bolted to the frame of a Jeep.  Don't Lose Your Top Big boys...  Don't Lose Your Top
Big boys like the T-98, SM465, SM420, NP435, and so on have shifters that are easily removable. However, in the T-90, T-14, T-15, and so on, the shifter is part of the transmission top cover. There's no way you'll be able to snake the transmission back enough to clear the input shaft from the clutch with the top cover still on, but removing it exposes the transmission internals to dirt, debris, and potential damage. However, most Jeeps have a bolt-on access cover that, if not in plain view, may be hidden under the carpet. Pull the cover and you'll have more than enough room to take out the transmission with the shifter attached.  Don't Flip Out If you've...  Don't Flip Out
If you've added a lift, especially with a spring-under suspension, there's a chance your shackles will invert if they're not long enough. However, running longer shackles may negatively change your pinion angle or caster. If you want to keep your short shackles, weld or bolt a scrap piece of rectangular tubing to the bottom of the framerail to act as a shackle stop.  Trail Thrones Early CJs and...  Trail Thrones
Early CJs and M38A1s could use a hand in the seating department. But most aftermarket seat manufacturers only build mounts for the later '76-up vehicles. A regular Mastercraft or Smittybilt seat will bolt right to the driver-side seat bracket of an older CJ, but the passenger-side with the flip-up bracket doesn't line up. If you can weld, all you need is some simple 1-inch strap steel welded to the inside of the flip-up bracket to adapt the replacement seat and have everything function as stock.  Spendy Cooling If you haven't...  Spendy Cooling
If you haven't priced replacement radiators for an early Jeep yet, sit down because they're costly. Believe it or not, the aftermarket Griffin radiator shown here is about half the price of a replacement V-6 radiator for an early CJ. Even though mounting may seem problematic, this M38A1 owner used four pieces of 1-inch strap steel bolted to the top and bottom of the original radiator mount and some long lengths of all-thread to build a mount for this aftermarket aluminum radiator when the stock one went poof.  Old Timey Filtering Lots...  Old Timey Filtering
Lots of old school Jeep guys prefer to keep the original oil bath air filter setup. And why not? But the hoses that connect the filter canister to the carburetor hat or carburetor deteriorate faster than the rest of the Jeep. Rather than sourcing relatively hard-to-find and expensive replacements, most guys simply use lengths of radiator hose. It works great, lasts a long time, and can be found at any auto parts store in the middle of nowhere.  Get Shafted You should have...  Get Shafted
You should have spare shafts no matter what axles you're running, but this is especially true if you're running an older Dana 25, Dana 27, or Dana 30. We found the short shaft will fit nicely on the inner fender under the hood, while the long shaft snugged down on the radiator mount/fan shroud in an early CJ. Bonus tip: use driveshaft U-bolts to hold them down and you'll have spares of those as well!  Slick Shift You can't always...  Slick Shift
You can't always find the right shifter balls for your older shift rods. And when you do, chances are they'll be made in China of crap plastic. So when ours literally crumbled in our hands we weren't surprised. Our local steel supply shop carries these little decorative sphere balls. We welded a nut onto the bottom, painted them black, and threaded them onto our shifter. You can find them in a bunch of sizes for T-case, transmission, or whatever you like.  Rust Buster We can't all...  Rust Buster
We can't all have fancy five-car shops to work in. Some of us have to fabricate in the driveway. To keep your bare steel from rusting over from rain, dew, or fog, spray it down with Eastwood's (eastwood.com) Heavy-Duty Anti Rust spray. It coats the steel in a thick layer of protectant that repels moisture and that is easily removed with brake cleaner.  Tired Hanger Sick of that...  Tired Hanger
Sick of that rusty exhaust pipe dangling and wobbling like an Obama bobble-head? You can use a sharp knife or reciprocating saw to cut a 1- to 2-inch-wide strip from the sidewall of an old tire, drill a couple holes in it, and attach it to the exhaust with some brackets that are likely already attached to your exhaust. You'll end up with a heavy-duty version of the stock-type rubber hanger pictured.  Leaker New brake lines never...  Leaker
New brake lines never seem to seal properly. But don't crank down on them till you round-off the hex-head fitting. Instead, lightly loosen and tighten the fitting a few times to work-in and smooth the sealing surfaces. It helps to mate them and seal off leaks. It will also make the fitting a lot easier to remove later on if need be.  Cardboard Cutout Use cardboard...  Cardboard Cutout
Use cardboard and a pair of scissors to make templates for tracing onto steel plate when boxing or reinforcing a frame. Cardboard cutouts are easier to fit up and trim than the steel so you can get them perfect before transferring them to metal.  Tap Bolt If you are fortunate...  Tap Bolt
If you are fortunate enough to have a tap and die set you have a more-complete tool chest than us. But if you need to chase the grime out of a threaded hole and don't have the correct tap, you can use a bolt. Starting with a Grade 8 bolt, use a cut-off tool or small grinder to simply carve a groove or two down the body of the threaded area. Then chase the threads of your new tap with a nut to make sure it's clean. Now you can run the bolt-tap through the grimy hole, the flutes in the bolt will collect the nasty and you'll have clean threads to work with.  Spray Template Spray paint...  Spray Template
Spray paint easily copies templates. Just lay down the cardboard or flat bracket you want to copy onto your steel plate and spray away. It's faster and easier than tracing with a marker or paint pen. Bright colored paint makes cutting easier.  Clamp-On Copy Once you have...  Clamp-On Copy
Once you have your plate steel brackets rough cut you can easily make two or more of them identical. Simply clamp them together in a bench vise and grind them into shape with an angle grinder.  Chisel Wrench While we don't...  Chisel Wrench
While we don't necessarily recommend this, sometimes you don't have an option when removing or adjusting the wheel bearing nuts, especially if you don't have the correct-sized socket on hand. If you're in a pinch and need it fixed now, use a hammer and chisel to loosen and tighten the large nuts. Then head to the parts store to get the correct tool for the job.  Grungy Grabber Face it, removing...  Grungy Grabber
Face it, removing old brake lines is a pain in the ass. Even the best tubing wrenches available never seemed to work for us. But we have found that the Craftsman Professional 101/2-inch Arc Joint Pliers (PN 45766) easily loosen the most stubborn, grungy and corroded brake lines without damaging the fittings.  Hub Saver If you catch it...  Hub Saver
If you catch it early enough you can save and reuse a wheel hub with a spun bearing race. Remove the race from the hub and use a punch to divot the hub multiple times along the circumference of where the race is seated. Don't be stingy, 20 or more divots will do the trick. This will expand the metal and create a light press fit for the race once it's pressed back in the hub.  Poor Man Porta-Power We found...  Poor Man Porta-Power
We found that our Jeep frame was a little splayed out from a wreck or some other unknown abuse. So we used a Hi-Lift jack to clamp it straight and hold it while we added a crossmember. A Hi-Lift could even be used to help straighten a diamond frame too.  Thread Condom It's easy to...  Thread Condom
It's easy to weld a bolt to an axle or frame for attaching things, but sometimes the threads get boogered from weld spatter. To keep the threads intact simply slide a small piece of hose over the threads before welding it in place. But remove the condom quick once you're done welding or it'll smoke and catch fire. A wad of tin foil also works well and won't burn.  Magnetic Retriever We aren't...  Magnetic Retriever
We aren't talking about a dog here. If you drop a bolt and can't get your hand in there to grab it, the magnet from your refrigerator taped to the longest, skinniest screwdriver you have can retrieve all but the most lost bolts or nuts. Don't buy those cheap magnets on a stick from the parts store, they always break or go missing. You always know where a screwdriver is, and always know where the fridge is.
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