The relatively small 2-inch suspension lift won't require any driveline or steering corrections other than simply adjusting the drag link to center the steering wheel after the lift is installed. Likewise, the 1-inch body lift won't require a longer steering shaft or anything like that. The shop may have to adjust the T-case shifter linkage, but that's no big deal. There's a little adjuster built into the linkage they can access from below to compensate the throw of the shift lever for the additional body lift. The 1-inch lift motor mounts are required to center the engine fan inside the shroud once the body lift is installed (the radiator and shroud are raised up 1-inch with the body lift). It also angles the rear driveshaft down to alleviate any vibrations on the road after the lift is installed. The 285/75R16 tires spec out close to a 33x12.00 size and look really good on a TJ. Furthermore, they're short enough to retain the vehicle's on-road performance, yet tall enough to really improve its off-road capability.
Unfortunately, I don't know of any shops in your area that could do the install for you, but if you log on to jpmagazine.com or some local off-road web sites, perhaps somebody could recommend one for you. I've found that Google searches usually yield pretty good results.
Finally, if you've got the cash left over, a Currie PN CE-9701 Currectlync HD tie rod system for $399.99 is a very worthwhile addition, because the factory steering linkage is a weak point off-road.
Hard-Pressed Stud
I am in the in the process of putting a 4.5-inch lift on my '97 XJ. I did not get too far before I ran into my first hurdle. I have removed the stock sway bar to install an Antirock Sway Bar. However, I can't get the bolt out of the bracket on the axle. I took the sway bar and ends off, but the bolt that holds the lower sway bar to the axle mount seems to be pressed in. The bolt is a Torx head bolt, but when you look at the other end of the bolt where it comes though the mounting tab, there are threads that run straight lengthwise down the bolt, as compared to wrapping around the bolt. I took pictures of this. I assumed that the bolt would just screw out or tap out at first, but no such luck. Do you have any advice?
Jeff Logandro
Carlsbad, California
That stud is pressed in there, and you're not gonna turn it out at any rate.
Your best bet is to get a small tie rod end puller or the like, cut most of the excess threads off, and try to press it out. Unfortunately, that tab is usually too weak to just hammer the stud out, so pressing is often the most effective method. To make it go slightly easier, you could try grinding the bolt head flush. It'll give the press-fit just that much less bite. Worst case scenario, you either cut and grind it flush with the tab and then drill it out or cut the whole tab end off and weld on a new one with a clean, drilled hole for your Antirock to ends to mount through.
Likes Us
The "Paycheck XJ" article in the Jan. '10 issue was outstanding! The amount of key information (changes to engines, transmissions, transfer cases, and axles over the various years) in one short article was a gold mine! I wish I had this information back when I was shopping for my first Cherokee.
My Cherokee was a '99 that I sold last year to pay off all consumer debt. Ever since selling it, I've been planning what year Cherokee to purchase next when my financial situation allows me to re-enter the 4x4 world. Your article provides exactly the information needed to help with that selection process.
Recently, though, since I've already owned and built a Cherokee, I've been thinking that I may like to try a Grand Cherokee. Have you ever done a similar article on Grand Cherokees? My most important questions: Was the Grand Cherokee offered with a V-8 and a solid front axle, and when was the last year of the solid front axle?
Deron Kaseberg
Cabot, Arkansas