Caster Disaster
I have a '95 Cherokee with a 4.7L stroker, stock AX-15 manual five-speed, and transfer case with a slip yolk eliminator. I have just finished putting in a 9-inch rear with 5.13 gears and a Detroit Locker. I'm working on the front now, which is where I need some help. It is a high-pinion Dana 44 out of a '79 Bronco with 5.13 gears and a Detroit locker. Which caster angle do I use to ensure good on-road handling-the Bronco or the Jeep specs? I have not made any changes to the housing except to cut off the mounts. I'm getting ready to put on my new spring mounts and need your opinion on which specs I should use.
Tommy Hodapp
Hope Mills, NC
I'd say forget worrying about "Bronco" or "XJ" caster specifications and dial the caster in at 6 degrees. That will give you good on-road manners and decent resistance to death wobble with larger 35-ish size tires. Since you've got locking hubs, the pinion angle isn't super-critical, especially with the high-pinion front axle.
Yet Another 2-to-4
I have a '93 2WD XJ with the 4.0L engine and automatic transmission. I also have an '89 4x4 XJ Laredo with the 4.0L and automatic. Can I bolt the front axle, transfer case, etc. from the 4x4 into the 2x4? The 2x4 is in much better condition (motor and transmission) and has the Chrysler 8.25 rear end. The '89 has a Dana 35. I appreciate anything you can tell me.
Mike Howland
Thermopolis, WY
It'll all bolt-in with the exception of the T-case. You'll need to either swap the mainshaft and tailhousing from the 4WD tranny into the 2WD tranny, or more easily, swap the whole 4WD tranny into the 2WD Jeep. Just make sure the electrical connectors are the same between the transmissions (they should be). Otherwise it's a completely bolt-in swap. It should go without saying that you should also make sure the 2WD and 4WD have the same axle ratios before swapping components. If they're both 4.0L autos I'd bet both Jeeps are running the 3.55 gears, so you'll probably be okay.
Powerjection Ponderings
I read your article "Fool Proof Fuel" (July '10) and bought myself a Powerjection III setup for my CJ. I saw where you used a pre-filter before the fuel pump. I've got a 40-micron screen-type filter from an old project that I was going to use when I install my Powerjection. Retrotek's instructions say they don't want you to put a pre filter in. The company recommends using just a screen-type filter on the pickup (which I don't have).
Chuck
Via email
My instructions said the same thing about not using a pre-filter, but there was no way I wanted to risk having an expensive fuel pump ingest something that'd chew its guts up. However, 40-microns is too small for a pre-filter. There's a chance it could get clogged and limit fuel to the pump, which could cause it to lose performance or worse, cook its internals. I'd recommend a pre-filter in the 85-100-micron range. I run an Earl's Performance 85-micron screen-type in my M-715 with good results.
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