If you are like us, you probably don’t have a lot of extra cash to dump into a Jeep nowadays. We feel your pain. However, with dwindling funds and ever increasing debt loads, opportunity still knocks. Despite an upside-down economy and high unemployment rates, the crafty Jeeper can still score big on a used ride. In times like these, a little cash in hand goes a long way. The secret to getting a good deal is patience—and a good knack for negotiation. Many Jeeps are secondary vehicles, and when times get tough, these unessential rigs are first to go.
Stover paid just $600 for this ’87 YJ in running condition. It was hiding out amongst several other unclaimed vehicles at a Watsonville, California, tow yard. The previous owner couldn’t afford the tow bill and storage fees were racking up. Stover happened by and noticed it sitting neglected under a thick layer of dust. The owner of the tow truck company had completed a lien sale on the rig and was simply looking to recoup his investment. So, using Stover’s newly acquired ’87 YJ pile as a guide, here are some examples to help you identify and negotiate a good deal on a beater that’s actually worth your time.
Where To Find a Beater
Local Law Enforcement: Virtually every city has a channel to liquidate vehicles that were abandoned, seized during crime investigations, or were involved in hit and runs. This is typically where you can find a Jeep that belonged to some poor sap who couldn’t afford auto insurance or got nailed for DUI, or some other type of criminal activity. This venue can also render vehicles that get retired from municipal service pools such as parking enforcement.
Public Auctions: A simple Google search will expose multiple auction companies that sell off unwanted fleets of vehicles each month. Typically, these are well attended by people who know about them or businesses that specialize in reselling such used vehicles. However, deals are out there and the whole auction experience can be quite entertaining. It’s a fun way to kill a Saturday afternoon.
Tow Companies: Every city has a tow truck company that is responsible for removing broken down, abandoned, or crashed vehicles from public areas. Simply dropping in to see what is available can net impressive results.
Copart, Craigslist, eBay, and Others: To those of you with computers, the web is literally filled with unbelievable deals on vehicles that others need to sell. The key is consistent searching and prompt follow-up. We have friends who regularly scour such websites for Jeeps, and typically they are the folks who score the best deals.
Step 1:
Pop the Hood Always...
Step 1:
Pop the Hood Always check all fluids under the hood first. Problems such as contaminated oil or unusually low radiator fluid could indicate a blown head gasket. Inspect the condition of fluids visually, but also smell them for a burnt or acrid scent which could indicate overheating or scorched components.
Step 2: Ground Yourself Get...
Step 2: Ground Yourself Get under the vehicle and search out problem areas. Items such as this cracked mounting bracket for a power steering pump are easy to spot with a flashlight.
Step 3: Snoop Around Get a...
Step 3: Snoop Around Get a good look at the openings of the framerails, since sedimentary mud is hard to remove from inside the frame. Check for scrape marks on all low-hanging surfaces. Look for leaks around all areas where fluids are used. We spotted this fuel leak around the fuel filter before the Jeep was even running. When the seller attempted to fire the engine, it took several seconds of cranking to bring it to life. Knowing about the leak beforehand reassured us that the inexpensive filter was the likely culprit. Once running, we rechecked the leak for a potential fire hazard.
Step 4: Play Pokey When it...
Step 4: Play Pokey When it comes to rust, keep an open mind. Most body rust will not affect the overall performance of a trail rig, unless of course the rust is surrounding some critical mounting point or moving assembly. Jeep YJs are known for rust issues around the rear-most spring hangers. Poke areas of concern with a hard object to see how bad the rust really is. Auto Rust Technicians (autorust.com) offers precision-fitting, weld-in frame sections that can make rusted shackle pivots good as new.
Step 5: Do the Twist With...
Step 5: Do the Twist With the e-brake engaged and the transmission in Neutral, grab a hold of each driveshaft and twist back and forth. This will expose any sloppiness in the U-joints, splines, or pinion bearings. Keep in mind that all vehicles have some slop in the drivetrain—especially if the differential has any type of limited slip or locker installed. Transfer cases with worn-out slip yokes have a tendency to move up and down with a simple push.
Step 6: Jump Around It’s always...
Step 6: Jump Around It’s always a good idea to check the suspension at each corner. To do so, push down hard on the fender or tub and watch to see how each corner reacts to up and down movement. The rate at which the vehicle moves up and down will tell you if components are worn out. Inconsistencies may be a sign of failed shocks, worn bushings, or broken/crushed springs. We noticed the broken leaf spring shown here by the lack of effort required to cycle the rear suspension on the driver side.
Step 7: Check for Bumps A...
Step 7: Check for Bumps A look at the vehicle’s bumpstops will tell you if the rig was ever abused or not. Jumping a vehicle with stock suspension will almost always leave a mark. These witness marks typically show evidence of metal-to-metal contact, as factory jounce material will yield to such suspension forces. In our case, the jounces were rusted off completely—a dead giveaway of exposure to saltwater or salted roads.
Step 8: Observe the Obvious...
Step 8: Observe the Obvious If the vehicle in question has a brand-new part installed in it, consider that the inexperienced will typically take the shotgun approach to resolving issues. In our case, the new aluminum radiator seen here was originally thought to be a bonus, but after driving the Jeep for 20 minutes, it became obvious that the engine ran hot and the previous owner did not know how to properly diagnose the issue. Once cool, we were able to confirm that the fan clutch was worn out.
Step 9: Walk the Line Critical...
Step 9: Walk the Line Critical systems such as brakes and a hydraulically actuated clutch should be inspected in detail. Look for leaks around seals, fittings, drum backing plates, and bleeders. Be aware of sections of hard line that may be crushed. Look for cracks or rub marks on flexible rubber hoses. Take off the cap to the master cylinder and look at the clarity of the fluid inside. If you find an issue with a hose, fitting, or hard line, Inline Tube (inlinetube.com) sells many direct-fit replacement hydraulic, brake, and fuel system components.
Step 10: Wiggle It If you...
Step 10: Wiggle It If you happen to have a friend with you, have them get inside and saw the steering wheel back and forth while you inspect the looseness of steering box mount, tie rods, and track bar pivot points. Physically touch your hands on the parts as your buddy continues to wiggle the steering wheel. Excess slop is easy to see. This is the easiest way to spot a worn steering component.
Step 11: Give It a Good Pry...
Step 11: Give It a Good Pry To assess the condition of the ball joints, jack up the front axle until the tires are no longer touching the ground. Position a prybar between the lower side of the inner “C” and the upper side of the knuckle. Pry down until the knuckle moves. A good joint will not move very much at all, whereas a worn ball joint will move up to 1/4-inch in either direction.
Step 12: Go Inside Once you...
Step 12: Go Inside Once you are comfortable with the mechanical condition of the vehicle, take a look inside. Check for excessive wear in areas like the driver-side floorboard. Look at the rear storage area, and try to find anything out of the ordinary. Items such as rear seat mounts and seatbelt latches will tell you how the vehicle was used. Missing mounting bracket bolts or sticky seatbelt latches due to mud will paint a picture of what the previous owner did with the rig.
Step 13: Pull Up the Carpet...
Step 13: Pull Up the Carpet If the vehicle has carpet in it, take a few minutes to poke around under it. Interior rust is common with open-top vehicles. We found this little surprise in the rear cargo area of this YJ. Evidently, the previous owner must have had fuel pump issues and was unable to or too lazy to drop the stock gas tank to access it. This little modification might not have been noticed if not for the missing section of carpet.
Step 14: Take a Spin The final...
Step 14: Take a Spin The final thing you should do before purchasing a beater vehicle is to drive it. Take it out and run through every gear; stop and engage the transfer case in high and low range; make sure everything functions properly. Take notice of unfamiliar sounds and smells. Pay attention to the feeling of the tires. Items such as seat comfort, steering wheel looseness, and pedal play are indicators of wear and tear.
Negotiation Tips From a Pro
We spoke with friend who is a current car salesman to learn how to play the negotiation game. These tips only apply to situations where the price is actually negotiable. Here is what he had to say.
Act Nonchalant: Above all, conduct yourself as if you could care less about owning the vehicle in question. Showing excitement about finding a pristine Jeep free of rust, or with a particular option will clue the seller in that he has the upper hand.
Appear Uninterested: Maintain a neutral facial expression at all times. A good salesman will watch for facial expressions to see how badly you want the vehicle. A stone-cold face tells the seller that you have other options and that he better drop the price or you will move on.
Silence Is Golden: Once you’ve given the vehicle a good look-over, keep your thoughts to yourself. Look the seller in the eye and say nothing. Awkward silence usually prompts the seller to divulge additional information about the condition of the vehicle or how low he can drop the price. You’ll be amazed what sixty seconds of silence can do.
Maintain Your Out: If you don’t think you are getting the best deal possible, don’t let an anxious seller bully you into the deal. Remember, you are the guy with the money. If the deal isn’t sweet enough for you, simply tell the buyer “This isn’t going to work for me.” This statement leaves no room for argument and gently tells the seller to come back to the table with a better offer.
Purchase Complete, Now What?
Once you get the vehicle home, take a day or two to clean it up. Remove discarded items from between the seats and under the carpet. Drain and change any fluids that you feel might be compromised. Check the distributor cap and spark plugs for obvious signs of neglect. Replace only the essential items that might inhibit the vehicle’s ability to get you home. Take it out for a weekend off-road adventure in stock form. Wheeling a stocker allows you to understand the vehicle’s strengths and weaknesses quickly. It also helps you identify where to invest money and time first. Keep a list in the glovebox documenting what issues need to be addressed and in what order. Spend your energy on the items that net functional results. Don’t bother with making it look cool by adding bolt-on accessories. Until the rig’s reliability is well known, concentrate on making it mechanically sound. We see so many guys blow hard-earned cash on billet-aluminum doo-dads rather than the important stuff like the suspension and steering, charging system, differentials, and brakes. Keep some extra cash around for any unforeseen issues that may come up. Beater vehicles have a tendency of surprising you with costs above and beyond what you plan for. Hold off on modifications that are not essential and feel out the rig’s reliability.