Last issue we showed you the T-boned ’07 JK we picked up for cheap (“Penny Pincher,” Dec. ’11). Our Wrangler was capable of driving down the road, but not well. It needed work. The initial goal was to get it into daily operational status without it driving itself into a ditch or constantly fighting the electronic stability control (ESC). The Jeep doesn’t need to look good, it just needs to kinda share colors with adjacent body panels.
After reviewing a $13,000 repair estimate from a local Jeep dealership, it made sense to do a lot of the work ourselves. It seemed the dealership responsible for the estimate had planned on making a boatload of money off of the insurance company. Parts were set to be replaced that could very easily have been reused. Also, some parts were even damaged by mechanics during the inspection. For example, in some states salted roads can lead to the corrosion of nuts and bolts. Wrangler bumpers have brass inserts and if you don’t apply some sort of penetrating lubricant, you’re going to rip the inserts through the plastic, leaving a hole big enough to fit a quarter through. It was easy to see that the previous owner would have replaced a perfectly good rear bumper because someone at the dealer was too lazy to shoot some PB Blaster.
The main issues that impeded the vehicle’s function included a front axle that was way outta whack and links and/or link mounts that were bent. There’s probably some frame damage that we won’t bother fixing unless it’s really bad. The rear axlehousing seems to be straight, but the passenger-side axleshaft is bent at the hub from bouncing off of a curb. We constantly have to air up the tires, since two of them have modest leaks. We weren’t sure if it’s from bent rims or holes in the tires, but it doesn’t matter because they’re crap anyway. The doors are hanging shells. They have no hardware or windows installed. Most of the parts are there, but many are broken or not functioning properly.
As far as the aesthetics go, there is a lot of body damage, but we have some ideas on how to do a semi-good job and will offer some pointers on how to hide most of the errors. More importantly, we plan to spend our rebuild dollars where it matters, building a more capable rig rather than letting some dealership just put it back to stock. Being cooped up in a heated garage for the winter forced us to make the best of it. So here’s how to turn a salvaged turd into a safe runner. Tune in next time when we take things one step further.
The first round of ’07 JKs...
The first round of ’07 JKs had a crappy Dana 35 rear axle. We were unlucky enough to get one. It was painful to spend a couple of hundred dollars on an axleshaft to replace our bent unit. The aftermarket doesn’t bother making parts for the JK Dana 35 because so few JKs were equipped with them. We looked around for a used Dana 44 for cheap with no luck. The rusted flange bolts began to spin when we tried to pull the shaft. It’s nothing a quick tack weld couldn’t fix, so if you don’t own a welder, get one.
The spendy new OEM axleshaft...
The spendy new OEM axleshaft (PN 68003534AA) is available at the dealer, but look around for better pricing since it’s available elsewhere at substantial savings. The unit comes fully assembled and includes a new tone ring. We weren’t looking forward to pressing bearings, so having a complete install-ready unit was nice. There’s a wheel speed sensor that you need to be careful not to damage. Don’t forget to reconnect it, or the ESC system will freak out.
We took a break from gear...
We took a break from gear oil and rusted bolts to install a used rear fender flare from Collins Bros. Jeep. The company is a great resource for hard-to-find new and used parts. The fasteners consist of large nylon pop-rivets and sandwich-type clips. Don’t waste your time or money at the dealership for fasteners that Auveco Products and other companies can supply more cheaply.
The front-end realignment...
The front-end realignment was going to be the most work. We pulled both lower control arms and cut the twisted mounts from the axle. Poly Performance has new heavy-duty brackets and hardware that is a real upgrade over the flimsy stock parts.
The new Poly Performance mounts...
The new Poly Performance mounts (PN PPM-8009-02) are more robust, have two options for lower arm mounting, and feature more weld surface area when attaching to the axle. You could make your own brackets, but these units are hard to beat when you consider what holds your front end in place.
It’s nearly impossible to...
It’s nearly impossible to weld new tabs in the exact stock location on the axle. Also, we weren’t sure if our stock lower arms were bent or not. Poly Performance has a solution for both issues in these slick high-clearance lower control arms (PN PPM-8051) that feature an adjustable Johnny Joint on one end.
The mounts and arms fit really...
The mounts and arms fit really well and the adjustability leaves room for minor error in bracket placement and slight tweaks in the frame or axles. The adjustable ends can be spun in or out to bring the front and rear axles into prefect alignment under the chassis. Make sure you put the arms on the correct side and not upside down. If it doesn’t seem to fit, it’s as wrong as a Bangkok lady-boy.
The bolt that connects the...
The bolt that connects the lower control arm to the frame on the passenger side must be cut unless you want to remove the exhaust system. You really don’t want to go messing with dropping the exhaust, so just blow through that bolt like a morning fart.
Now that our JK was drivable,...
Now that our JK was drivable, we moved on to aesthetics. Neither door opened or closed because the handles and the metal around them on both sides were crushed. Removing the doors altogether would have been an option if the vehicle hadn’t been in Michigan. We’re not polar bears. We straightened out the metal and welded it back together. Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive stud welder (PN 98357) that comes in handy when pulling thin-gauge steel.
The driver-side rocker panel...
The driver-side rocker panel was nearly pushed in to the frame. We cut the metal out, pounded it back into shape, and welded it back on.
After an ample supply of Bondo...
After an ample supply of Bondo and plenty of sanding, we have some decent lines. Go to a real automotive paint supply shop. They can create custom-matched paint and clear coat in aerosol cans if you’re lacking a professional gun, skills, and/or patience.
We had to buy new door handles...
We had to buy new door handles from the dealer. On the JK they’re the same as a new Jeep Liberty. The rest of the components needed to reassemble the doors came from Collins Bros. Jeep. The grille and rear bumper popped in with some rigging and we attached part of the front bumper so po-po would stay off our backs. Our JK may be a fenderless ride with pizza-cutter tires, but after a trip to the alignment shop, it’s now a daily driver.