Rolled Jeep Recovery Tips - Yank, Strap, Winch

If you've flopped or rolled, take a few extra minutes once your vehicle is righted to do some damage control. Check all your fluid levels including the brake master cylinder, radiator, power steering, and tranny and engine oil. Don't try to fire the engine, but instead bump the starter a couple times listening if oil or fuel has filled the cylinders. If you feel or hear any resistance, remove the spark plugs and spin the engine with the starter to evacuate any fluid to prevent hydrolocking the engine. Actually, it's just safe practice to pull the plugs anyway before trying to start the engine at all.

Some recoveries are way more involved than others. From left to right, the TJ has used a long strap to anchor its winch line to a rock, allowing the use of a snatch block for more pulling power and a straighter pull. The winch line of the TJ is positioned on the low-side of the roll bar to help pull the rolled Jeep up onto its wheels. The YJ in the center is providing additional pulling power to aid the TJ's line. The Scout at right is hooked to the Jeep's front bumper and is keeping just enough tension to keep the Jeep from sliding backwards as it's winched onto its wheels. In a situation like this, strong coordination and concentration are required and it's imperative that the recovery is directed by only one person. Having several folks yelling stuff out only muddies the waters and leads to accidents. Pick a recovery leader and then shut up.

The D-ring shackle is the mainstay of the off-roader's recovery bag. Used to join straps, snatch blocks, and any other assortment of recovery gear, the D-ring is a must-carry. They come in many sizes, but the 3/4-inch D-ring is most commonly included in most companies' winch recovery kits. Most recovery experts recommend keeping the strap ends on the shackle body as shown to prevent binding or loosening of the shackle pin. Use a pair of pliers, rock, or whatever you've got handy to really tighten the pin and ensure the shackle won't unfasten under load.

Like a tree saver strap, the standard recovery strap should be another mainstay in the off-roader's goodie bag. Most off-road recovery straps are offered in 2- or 3-inch-wide versions in lengths of 20-30 feet. We've used a 3-inch x 30-foot version for over a decade and yes, inside your spare is an excellent carrying spot for it. Don't confuse a recovery strap with a snatch strap. A snatch strap is designed to stretch, allowing one vehicle to gain momentum and yank another vehicle out of a stuck. A recovery strap doesn't stretch. Never use a snatch strap with a snatch block, D-ring shackle, or any other heavy object that may become a projectile if the strap fails.

Even if you wheel in the open desert, a tree saver is a handy little recovery tool to bring along. Rather than wrapping a wire winch line around a tree trunk, which can damage or kill the tree, the tree saver goes around and then secures to the winch line via the which hook itself or with a D-ring shackle. They're also a great for pulling from a vehicle's axle, bumper, or other sturdy recovery locations that won't get ripped off.

Trucker chain, or choker chain as it's more commonly known, should never be used to yank a stuck vehicle free. A snatch strap or even a recovery strap will exhibit some give under a sudden shock load. Chain will not give at all and can fail if subjected to a sudden, violent shock. Chain is better used in wooded areas to clear trees and obstacles or to tow or pull a vehicle once it has been freed. Choker chain should be high-strength with forged ends and at least 5/16- or 3/8-inch links. The hook ends slide over the chain links, locking in place when under load.

When winching always use a short tree saver or recovery strap to hook to the vehicle if a secure winch attachment point like a tow hook isn't available. Never wrap the winch line around axle or suspension components and don't connect it directly to any body, bumper, or frame components. It's always a good idea to lay a heavy jacket, moving blanket, or dedicated winch weight over the line before it's under load. If the winch line snaps, the blanket or weight will help keep the cable ends from flying off and possibly injuring a bystander or recovery person.

A Hi-Lift jack serves as everything from a manual winch to an extra-large vise to a source for spare steering and suspension sleeves and repair parts to a jack, and lots more. They're sturdy, simple, and relatively cheap. Check our web site at jpmagazine.com for our story on the many uses of the Hi-Lift titled, "Hi-Lift Hi-Jinx" covering more on the use of this cool trail tool.

There are a ton of cool aftermarket bumpers on the market today that offer niceties from integrated D-ring mounts, tow hooks, and receiver hitch attachment points. Normally, if an aftermarket company offers these features it has engineered additional mounting reinforcements into its bumper. But even a factory receiver hitch can be made into a useful recovery tool with nothing more than a 3/4-inch hitch pin. Just slide the end of a recovery strap into the receiver hitch and insert the hitch pin for a quick, easy pulling point.

If you're getting dizzy trying to track down all the odds and ends required to make your own recovery bag, don't bother. Just about every winch company, as well as other manufacturers such as ARB, Hi-Lift, and more offer off-road recovery kits with everything you need. Do a Google search and you'll be inundated with options. Although the initial price may seem a little steep, keep in mind that you'll most likely be handing a recovery bag like this down to your kids. We've been running our Warn recovery kit for about a decade now. In addition to our regular tool kit, we always off-road with the following: several D-ring shackles, snatch block, tree saver, 3x30-foot recovery strap, leather gloves, winch remote, a small Powertank, air hose, and a tire repair kit. With these tools we're prepared for just about any moderate recovery job we may encounter.