I have been a loyal costumer for about a year now, and I like what I see. I have tried a few 4x4 mags and have only found a few good ones (Jp being the best). Well, my mom convinced her boyfriend to give me a broken-down '90 XJ (it has 201,000 miles). My dilemma is that the engine is shot and I have limited funds to get it running again. I don't want to spend more then $1,000 for a new engine. I want to keep with the 4.0L engine but don't want to keep with the same year engine. I have found a few places that sell used engines like www.auctionsalvage.com, they have a used '90 4.0L engine with 80,000 for sale for $700 and a '91 engine with 70,000 miles for $850. I also want to put a 6.5-inch Rough Country lift kit, 31-inch Baja Claws, 4.88 gears, Detroit Lockers, and all the undercarriage protection I can find. Do you have any suggestions for the engine and upgrades for a first timer? Thanks a lot. Oh, and I think the MJ (XJ counterpart) is looking sweet, and you really should do an All-Bree-Bikini issue, just to piss off the haters.
Ethan Newhouse
Bremerton, Washington Hardcore XJ guys would tell you to go with the '91 because it's an H.O. engine, but unless you add the later-model fuel injection harness, injectors, computer, and all the rest, you're really not going to see that much of a difference. You're a young guy who's strapped for cash, and I'd suggest just picking up the less expensive '90 4.0L for $700 and putting the $150 you save toward other things you'll want when doing the swap like new motor mounts, maybe a header, a new clutch, and new fluids and filters. The '90 engine was rated at 177hp, while the '91-up models were rated at 190hp. It sounds good, but in real life you're really not going to notice the 13hp. Besides, for the money you save in keeping your Renix injection system and computer you'll be able to up the power of your 4.0L to around 200hp. I'd start by adding a header by Borla or Banks (or at least an uncracked factory 4.0L tubular exhaust manifold), a high-flow air intake, and a good flowing muffler after the cat, like a Flowmaster. These modifications, along with a good set of plug wires and a fresh cap and rotor will give you a 200hp 4.0L for about the same as it would cost you to convert your '90 to a '91-up H.O.
I've spent the last year building an '84 CJ-7. After about $25,000 in parts, I've got a great rig as long as I don't go over 40 mph. The front end will start a violent wobble, and the jeep can't be stopped quick enough. Friends tell me it's a death wobble.
I have custom Dana 60s purchased from a reputable business that are sprung-over with a BDS 4-inch lift. All steering linkages are brand new as are the Swamper 38.5x14.50x15 TSL-SXs on bead locks with the PVC inserts. The power-steering box feels tight with no wear. I've changed all the bushings and had the tires balanced by a local business. The balance isn't perfect, but it's pretty close. I called the axle makers and they said the front is rotated back about five degrees for caster (the tops of the spindles are rotated back), and that shouldn't cause the wobble. I know the tires are bias ply and not radials, but I've spoken with folks running these on the street in the past with no troubles. I plan to add a dual-steering stabilizer in the next week, but I'm not so sure that will fix the issue.
Everyone seems to have a different opinion on how to fix the problem, but I'm getting tired of spending more money, and nothing seems to help. HELP!
David Nyman
Del Rio, Texas
Man, there are so many places it could be coming from it's almost impossible to track it down from my chair here. You've covered most of my first guesses. Your Dana 60 should have about five degrees of caster (bottom ball joint in front of the top ball joint). Your tires may be the culprit even though you had them balanced. The PVC inserts would have me questioning their true balance if they've been built incorrectly and are moving around inside the rim. The only real way to know the problem isn't the tires is to beg, borrow, or steal a set of smaller tires to test drive. If you've still got the death wobble, you know it's not in your 38s.
The steering stabilizers should help, although they're probably just going to mask the true problem. Double check that all of your tie rod ends are seated correctly in their tapers, or if you're running rod ends make sure that they're not cracked or their holes aren't wallowed out. Make sure the pitman arm nut is tight.
The spring-over with 4-inch springs will actually net you about 7 to 8 inches of lift. That's quite a bit for those skinny 2-inch wide CJ front springs. You may be coming into a situation where you've got too much leverage between the frame and the tires for the springs to compensate for, and the whole front axle is beginning to oscillate side to side underneath the vehicle. Check that your front shackles are tight but not so tight your front suspension won't move. If you've run down all your options with no luck, you may consider adding a trac bar (the same length and angle as your drag link) to keep the front axle from moving independently of the frame and steering.
Finally, my 42-inch TSLs would nearly jerk the steering wheel right out of my hand until they warmed up and the flat-spots went away. Could it be that you're just not driving the Jeep long enough to work out all the flat spots and kinks from the tires?