Powerless Pug
I'm in possession of an '86 Jeep Cherokee Laredo with the 2.8L and three-speed auto. My questions are concerning a possible engine swap. Other than the 4.0L, knowing it will probably mean swapping out the entire front end, what other options might I have. Would an engine from another vehicle besides a Jeep work, and if so, which one?
My local used-parts suppliers all offer the 4.0L, but with an extensive list of items that I would have to gather from various other vehicles. No engine would be complete. And the used-sales lots want about as much as it would take me to transform my machine.
My intentions for this Jeep are for it to be a daily driver, used for some light wheeling in the foothills around Las Vegas, and the occasional trip to Moab to explore some of the beginner trails. I'm looking at a 3.5-4.5-inch lift with a SYE, shafts, and 31s or 32s. Any suggestions in any area will be welcomed.Name withheldVia e-mail
I hate to break it to you, but your best course of action is going to be selling the 2.8L-equipped XJ and buying a later 4.0L version.
A 4.0L swap just isn't cost effective unless you've got a wrecked 4.0L XJ sitting right next to your vehicle while you do the swap. The transmission bolt pattern, engine harness, computer, motor mounts, accessory group, and cooling system will all need to be swapped over.
If you're set on sticking with your '86 and want some more power, a GM Performance Parts 3.4L V-6 crate engine is a bolt-in swap for your 2.8L and should up the power some. GMPP rates the 3.4L at 160 hp and 194 lb-ft. You can find the engine through Scoggin Dickey Parts Center (http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&catid=120&pid=116) or through your local GM dealership.
Old-Time Torture Device
I'm considering installing Wrangler leaf springs on my '52 Willys CJ-3A. Do you guys have any past issues that would cover the specs, like positioning the new shackle locations and approximate lift with stock six-leaf wrangler springs?
I took my Jeep in to have the springs re-arched to 3 inches, but in order to do that they added three extra leafs to each spring for a total of 11 on the front and 13 on the rear. I don't need to tell you how that rides.
Do you remember Verne Simmons' Flattie? Was the 3-inch lift he put on too stiff?Patrick McKeownFallsington, Pennsylvania
Here's a link to a story I wrote a few years ago about the suspension on my '53 DJ-3A: http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/66078/index.html.
On the front, I used a M.O.R.E. (www.mountainoffroad.com) shackle-reversal kit for a '76-86 CJ and modified it slightly to work. I got the whole kit, but I only used the front spring hangers and shackles out of it. I used a piece of 31/416-wall rectangular tubing as the front bumper welded straight to the front frame horns. The spring hangers weld right to the bumper and frame to lengthen the wheelbase slightly. For the shackle hangers I used M.O.R.E. slickrock hangers that are welded straight to the bottom of the frame. To stiffen the frame, I cut 11/48-inch plates and fully boxed the frame from front to back.
On the rear I used stock YJ spring hangers (got 'em through 4Wheel Drive Hardware, www.4WD.com) and M.O.R.E. slickrock shackle hangers and shackles. Once again, the shackles are welded straight to the rectangular bumper for a slightly longer wheelbase.
The lift will be roughly equivalent to a 4.5-inch spring-under lift. I fit 35x13.50s on 15x10 bead locks with some fender trimming of the rear tub.
Re-arching is usually considered a temporary fix. Most re-arch jobs have the spring sag back to original after some use. The minority of them take and keep the customers happy. It sounds like you got the short end of the stick.
If I recall, the 2.5-inch Rancho kit Verne used was about on par with the stock springs. Maybe just a hair softer. Verne ran RS9000 shocks and put them at two or one on the soft setting. He was able to fit 32s cleanly with minimal fuss. If I was lifting a flattie and wanted to retain the stock flavor, that's the route I'd go.
And More Rubicon Upgrading
I have an '00 XJ with the (from what I have read in numerous articles) horrible Chrysler 8.25 rear axle and the standard Dana 30 in front, both running 3.55 stock gears. The AW4 tranny and the NV231 transfer case help make everything move.
I have a buddy that swapped his Dana 44 Rubicon axles for a set of portal axles, and I was wondering what I would have to do to get them under my XJ. He is giving me the lockers, and I'm pretty sure the front upper and lower control arms are the same. Will I have to get a different yoke for my front and rear driveshafts? I don't know if the XJ and the TJ share the same output shafts or things of that nature.
Also, aside from welding on perches for my existing rear leaves, is there anything I should do or watch out for to make this a quality swap? Or what do I have to do to put coils on the back?
I plan on going from the 4.5 inches of lift I have now, to a 6- or 8-inch lift in the future, and I am afraid the Chrysler rear will blow up if I lock it and put 35s on there.Jon ForemanOhio
You scored. You'll be able to bolt the stock Dana 44 front right in place of your Dana 30. I doubt you'll need to shorten your front driveshaft, but you may need a conversion U-joint (1310-1330).
The Rubicon Dana 44 rear is the same width as your Chrysler 8.25. The best way to go about it would be to carefully grind off the welds from the Dana 44 mounts and hammer them off. Or if you're good with a torch or plasma cutter, you can get rid of them that way. I'd get myself some new aftermarket spring perches (Rubicon Express, M.O.R.E., and other companies offer them) and weld them to the Rubicon housing. The Rubicon rear yoke is a 1330 series. You can buy a new 1310 Dana 44 yoke and replace it, have your driveshaft rebuilt with a 1330 series U-joint at the axle end, or simply run a 1310/1330 conversion U-joint. Most NAPA Auto Parts stores carry them, or you can buy one from Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts, High Angle Driveline, or most other driveshaft builders.
Before welding the rear spring perches on, make sure the axle is centered under the vehicle. Measure from the backing plates to the springs as a reference. When the axle is centered, mount the tires. Make sure the pinion is lower than where you're going to want it and loosely clamp the spring u-bolts down. Then lower the vehicle weight onto the axle. Gently bounce the rear of the vehicle a few times to get the springs back to ride height. With the weight of the vehicle on the springs at ride height, you can place a jack under the pinion and gently jack the pinion up, rotating it to the proper angle for the driveshaft. With the pinion angle set, tack weld your spring pads to the housing, pull it all apart, and burn in your final welds.
I'd really try to get your buddy's Rubicon air pump to operate the locker to avoid possible damage. The Rubicon lockers only require 5 psi to operate. Don't feed them any more than 10 psi or you could damage the internals.
Just so you know, the Dana 30 from and Chrysler 8.25 axles from your XJ are decent pieces that will stand up to 33s with little worry. However, with your plans of 35s, you're better off with the Rubicon Dana 44s.