I just bought an '89 YJ from my brother that is a project. He tore the rear Dana 35 out and left it like that because he had no idea how to put a new one in. I bought a Ford 8.8 from an Explorer to put in it, and I also bought the M.O.R.E. install kit and a 3.5-inch Rough Country lift kit to install at the same time. My question is with the axle angle. I plan on running a CV shaft and a slip-yoke eliminator. Do I need to install the T-case brackets that came with the lift kit? What angle do I want to set the driveshaft yoke at? I don't have a driveshaft yet.Brent SchneiderVia e-mail
If you're doing a slip-yoke eliminator and a CV, then you don't need to install the T-case drop brackets that come with the kit.
You need to measure for the driveshaft first, before setting the pinion angle because you really need to have the driveshaft installed to get the angle perfect. After you've installed the lift and the T-case slip-yoke eliminator, loosely bolt the 8.8 axle to the springs using the spring U-bolts and plates with the 8.8 pinion roughly parallel with the garage floor. Like I said, with the U-bolts loosely holding the axle in place (tight enough to hold the springs to the axle but loose enough so the axle can be spun), set the weight of the Jeep down on the tires. Bounce the rear end a few times to settle the springs. Now, hold a broom stick or even a tape measure to create a straight line from the T-case output yoke to the nut on the 8.8 axle flange. Put a floor jack under the 8.8 pinion and rotate it upward until it's roughly in line with your T-case. This will get you close enough to the actual operating angles to correctly measure for your driveshaft. Measure from the center of the T-case yoke (where the center of the U-joint is going to be) to the middle of the 8.8 axle flange. Your driveshaft manufacturer can assist you in exactly how he wants you to measure for the driveshaft.
Once the driveshaft arrives, install it and set the pinion angle so the pinion is one or two degrees less than the angle of the driveshaft, then weld the spring perches to the axletube. It sounds like a lot, but it's actually a fairly easy operation.
My TJ is on jackstands at my father-in-law's. We spent some time replacing the clutch, but then ended up spending the next several hours trying to separate the transmission and transfer case from the engine. There is a bolt linking the assembly and engine on top, and it's damaged from the previous owner. We spent quite some time grinding it down. We are still having difficulty parting it from the engine. Do you have any tips or tricks that you can send our way?Mike PetrarcaMurietta, California
First, verify that the rest of the bellhousing bolt holes are free and clear. You didn't leave any bolts in there, did you? There are two 12-point bolts on the top of the bellhousing. It's difficult to get a socket on them. If you've already ground the bolt, then you're committed to finishing the job.
I'd use a small die grinder with a carbide bit to fully remove the bolt head flush with the bellhousing. This should let you slide the assembly back far enough to clear. If the bellhousing hits the firewall before clearing the bolt, you'll need to hook the engine up to a hoist and unbolt the engine mounts. Carefully slide the whole assembly forward about an inch (any more and you may damage A/C and fuel lines). Make sure the tranny/T-case are supported from underneath. Then with the extra clearance, you should be able to slide the tranny/T-case off. You may need to use one or two long pry bars to gently coax the input shaft from the pilot bushing. If it's boogered, it won't let the tranny cleanly come off sometimes. Don't use too much force.
My '89 Jeep Wrangler decided it didn't want the front cylinder in its 2.5L four-banger anymore. There's now an apple-sized hole in the block with chunks of metal flying out at will. I seriously need to know my options. I've read a lot online about engine swaps, but I'm not sure of the total cost (the total for a V-8, V-6, or even another 2.5L). There are so many good and bad points with them all, and I'm on one helluva budget (I know, everyone is). New exhausts, driveshafts, radiators, trannies, good god! I have read about engine rebuilding kits with perhaps a used block also. I can't do the work myself, so any labor estimates would help too. Time is short, and I'm losing sleep over this.Robert PlatzVia e-mail
If your budget is that tight, I'd suggest going for another mundane 2.5L. I know it's boring, but that's the least expensive way to get on the road again. Because so many guys swap them out, you should be able to find a decent take-out four-cylinder somebody yanked for a V-8 swap. Check craigslist.com in your surrounding areas. You could also try checking the classified sections of www.pirate4x4.com, www.naxja.com, www.jeepaholics.com, and any other Jeep-related Web site you can search for online.