Third, if your T-case is really as bad as you say and you're going to crack into it anyway, I'd go ahead and install the slip-yoke eliminator and CV rear driveshaft. This is probably your best bet because it will allow you to remove the T-case drop. With the T-case back in the stock location, your front shaft angle should be just marginally OK if it was before and wouldn't require the installation of the locking hubs on your axle.
As for the rubbing on the crossmember, you'll either need to have some of the crossmember modified for driveshaft clearance or install limiting straps on the front axle to keep it from dropping out too much. If you're having the work done by the guys at Tri-County, they should be able to handle this for you. You'll need to have a new rear shaft made, and you'll need to rotate your rear pinion up so that it's in line with the driveshaft. Make sure you adjust the rear pinion and measure for the new driveshaft after the T-case drop brackets are removed.
When the short-shaft kit is installed, it'll give the installer an opportunity to check your chain, gearset, and bearings.
How come you never see a Currie Antirock sway bar on a YJ? One exception was the YJ in Jp Magazine's Sept. '07 issue ("Low Down and Stable"). Is the Antirock a bad choice on a YJ? I drove a custom buggy for a day in Moab, Utah, and it had Antirocks front and rear, and they controlled body roll really well. This only made me want them on my YJ. Maybe leaf springs and Antirocks are a bad combo? Help me out here.
"Jeep Boy"
Logan, Utah
It's not that it's a bad combo. It's just that most people feel there's enough inherent friction within the leaf pack to give enough stability for most off-road situations. In short, they just don't need them. At least, that's what most people feel.
However, if you want to run a sway bar off-road, the Antirock is, in my opinion, one of the best choices. Compared with a factory sway bar, it will allow more flex with little to no binding and has several provisions for increasing or decreasing the bar's firmness.
A friend of mine had an accident while four-wheeling. When it was obvious she was going to lose control of the Jeep before it tipped over, she jumped out of her Jeep. The Jeep then rolled onto her. She's OK now, but she lost over 60 percent of her blood and a third of her liver. When I said you never jump from your Jeep, she said you're always supposed to bail. Is there something I've missed here? Seems she paid the price for jumping out. What's the general rule here? Am I to stay in or jump out? Nearly every person I've known who has jumped out of their four-wheeler has been injured (one is paralyzed). Help the dummy here.
Doug Stubbs
Great Falls, Montana
You're right. She's so wrong it's not funny. It's basic Darwinism if you decide to ignore it, but most people with half a brain know to keep their seatbelt buckled, hands, arms, and legs inside, and to just duck and cover if a rollover is imminent. We've covered the topic, as well as improved safety equipment like rollcages, seatbelts, and even suspension seats in the past, and I'm sure we'll be covering them again in the future. However, sometimes there's just no talking sense to people. Hopefully, she'll see reason, but if not, take solace in the fact that you tried and ultimately she's providing job security for all those EMTs, Life Flight pilots, and medical professionals out there.
Got a tech question you're just itching to get answered? Send it on in to Jp Magazine, Your Jeep, 6420 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90048, or e-mail christian.hazel@jpmagazine.com.