Grand Expectations
I've got a question about the front Dana 30 in my '96 Grand Cherokee. I know it's pretty weak, especially when it's got a 5.2L V-8 and those front CV axles instead of a standard U-joint (I know; I should have passed on it but it was a good deal). Well, since I'm on a tight budget a complete axle swap is out of the question. Would it be possible to swap the axles with standard U-joint axles from a junkyard ZJ? Do I have to swap knuckles too? I'm not too concerned about the ABS. I don't wheel it too hard and I'm only running 32s with a 3.5-inch lift GilbertLas Vegas, Nevada
I wouldn't tell you to pass on that vehicle. It's a good Jeep.
No need to swap knuckles. You can just slap in some ZJ replacement shafts from a U-joint type axle. If you can't find them in the junkyard, check Crown Automotive (crownautomotive.net) for stock replacements. They list the outers for use with your ABS under PN 4728984 (you'll need two) and the inners under PN 4740970 (right) and PN 4740971 (left). Don't forget the U-joints, PN 4137757, and I'd recommend installing new inner axle seals PN 4874477 since nearly every CV-equipped Dana 30 front I've encountered had hashed inner seals that will eventually start leaking.
With only 32s, I doubt you'll need the alloy shafts, but depending on Crown's price on the stock replacements it may not be that objectionable to get the upgraded alloy parts. If you can find a company who still makes them, that is. Check Alloy USA and Superior for starters.
Dig Dug Dead Bug
How can I clean the bugs out of my TJ radiator without damaging the fins?Matt SimkinsMidland, Michigan
There's a couple ways. First, you get a sharp dental type pick and sit there for hours carefully removing the bugs from between the fins. I'm not gonna lie to you. It sucks.
Second, you can get a "radiator comb" at certain auto parts stores. It's a short little steel, aluminum, or hard plastic comb with teeth spaced the same width apart as a radiator. Usually they have a few different sets of teeth in the same tool to work with radiators with differently spaced fins. The tools are primarily designed to straighten bent fins and won't really work all that well for getting the bugs out, but it'll be better than nothing.
Third, remove the radiator and submerge it in a solution of soapy water and let it soak for a couple days to a week. You're looking for the little bug bodies to decompose and get soft and mushy. Once that happens, shoot a blast of compressed air from the backside of the radiator to blow them out.
Hatari II
I just bought my fourth Jeep and was hoping you could give me your opinion on it. I bought it for $500 from a guy who bought it in the early '80s, drove it home and parked it in his garage and never drove it again. It's a '61 CJ-6 with 12,880 miles on it. The guy he got it from only used it for plowing his driveway in the winter and cutting his grass in the summer. It seems to be all original including the soft top and doors as well as the entire drivetrain with four shifter levers on the floor and a PTO. It's a four-cylinder and three-speed. The body is in rough shape from winter salt. I have been spraying every moving part with PB Blaster and am going to start changing plugs, wires, gaskets and fluids. Would you do anything else before hooking a battery up and turning it over?Scott MorrisGrand Rapids, Michigan
Wow, that's a great find at an excellent price. You've got a 134 F-head engine, T-90 transmission, Spicer 18 T-case, Dana 25 front axle and Dana 44 rear axle in that thing.
For starters, spray the spark plug threads down with penetrating lube 'cause they may be seized. You don't want to snap one off in the block. Once you pull the plugs, shoot a little Marvel's Mystery Oil through the plug holes inside the cylinders and let it sit for a few days before you try to fire it up. That'll help free up the piston rings from the cylinder walls. It's okay to fill up the cylinders with Marvel's as long as you don't have the plugs in the first time you try to crank it over. If you have the cylinders full of fluid and then cap them with the spark plugs the engine will hydro lock and bend a rod.
With the cylinders soaking, pull the oil drain plug and oil filter. Wait until the engine oil stops draining, then pour two or three more quarts of fresh oil through the engine and let it drain through. That will help flush out any debris and sludge from the pan. Fill the engine crank case with fresh 30W oil. You may want to substitute one quart of ATF for one quart of engine oil for the first fire up to help clean the oil passages and free up any sludge. ATF has a much higher detergent content than regular auto oil and adding one quart won't hurt the engine. Also, toss on a new oil filter.
I'd also drain the tranny, t-case, and axle lube since 20 years is a long time to sit. Don't forget the engine will cause the tranny input shaft to spin even if it's in Neutral, so it's a good idea to have fresh 90W in there.
Remove the fuel tank from under the front seat (at least I assume it's under the seat) and drain any fuel that may be in there. It's not going to be any good. Replace the fuel filters with new ones (or add filters if there aren't any already in place). Grab a carb rebuild kit from NAPA, Crown Automotive (crownautomotive.net) or 4WD Hardware (4wd.com), and pop the top of the carb off. Shoot some carb cleaner in the fuel bowl to get rid of any varnish and sludge and shoot carb clean into the carb body.
Remove the distributor and spin the oil pump drive with an electric drill and attachment to index the oil pump drive to build oil pressure. You don't want to just crank the engine to build oil pressure since the bearings, rings, and valvetrain will most certainly be dry after all that time. Running the pump with a drill builds pressure and gets oil shooting through the galleys without any of the engine components moving.
Pull the spark plugs and crank the engine over a few times to shoot any Marvel's oil out. Make sure there is coolant in the radiator. Spin the plugs back in, prime the carburetor with fuel, and fire it up. I'd let it come up to operating temperature for about 10 minutes, then I'd do another engine oil and filter change just for safe measure with 10W-40 or 20W-50 depending on your climate needs.