Cherokee By The Numbers
I'm 17 and just bought an '89 Cherokee. It's completely stock and I know nothing about Cherokees. I used to drive a YJ and knew a thing or two about those. What kind of axles are on my new (old) XJ? What are some modifications I could do to give it a little more power and make it better off-road? It's got to be on a budget, since I work at Wendy's. I would like to get some 30-inch tires on it. What kind of lift should I get that is good, but not too expensive? Any additional info you could give me about '89 XJs would be great!Kenny,Stuart, Virginia
I assume you've got the six-cylinder and auto tranny? Here's how the drivetrain runs down:
Engine: This is the non- H.O. 4.0L with the AMC-sourced Renix injection. There's nothing wrong with it, but it doesn't make the impressive power that the H.O. engines made. On a budget, just leave it mostly stock and make sure your tune-up parts (cap, plugs, rotor, oil) are in good shape. K&N makes a drop-in, high-flow filter that fits your stock airbox under PN 33-2018 and Dynomax has a nice after-cat exhaust under PN 17340. Check amazon.com for a decent price on the exhaust. I think it's around $140 and even though it says it's for '93-up Cherokees, it should fit your '89.
Transmission: More than likely it's the AW4 overdrive automatic made by Aisin Warner. The AW4 is a great transmission. If you do a fluid and filter change, make sure to use ATF+4 oil since that's what it's designed for. The synthetic lube is more expensive, but it'll really help the tranny last and perform as designed.
Transfer-case: The T-case could be a NP242 "Selec-Trac" (2WD, Full-Time 4WD, Part-Time 4WD, Neutral, 4WD Low) or a NP231 "Command-Trac" (2WD, Part-Time 4WD, Neutral, 4WD Low). You'll see the positions on the shifter inside, or crawl underneath and it'll be stamped on the rear of the T-case on a little red/silver round metal tag. If it's the NP242 you can run in 4-Hi on the highway, streets, off-road, and so on in Full-Time 4WD mode since it's got a differential in the T-case. However, like a Wrangler NP231, you can't drive on the street in regular Part-Time 4-Hi or 4-Lo.
Front Axle: It's a high-pinion Dana 30 with smaller 260-X sized U-joints. Unlike your Wrangler they're one-piece shafts on the passenger-side. Shafts from a '95-up Cherokee with larger 760-X sized U-joints will swap in if you ever plan to upgrade, but with 30-inch tires the stock shafts will be fine. Don't go jumping it though, or you will bend the front housing.
Rear Axle: It's either a Dana 35 (weak, but the '89 was a non- C-clip type so if a shaft breaks the wheel/tire won't leave the vehicle) or a Chrysler 8.25. You'll have to look at the rear diff cover to tell. Check out this site and match up what you see: http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/categories/dana/
Suspension: Rubicon Express makes a nice 2-inch budget lift kit that includes everything you'll need from brake lines to shocks for about $260. The company offers two different versions: PN RE6160 uses add-a-leaves installed in the rear spring packs and PN RE6165 uses rear lift blocks. I installed the 6160 kit in Jp's '99 Cherokee and found the ride got a little stiffer in the rear, but it will help if your rear springs are sagged. The block kit will retain the factory ride, but won't increase your load carry capacity. Rough Country also makes a 1.5-inch spacer kit with add-a-leafs in the rear for about $250. Any of these kits are good and will let you run 235/75R15 or 30x9.50 tires on the factory rims.