Crown Jewels
I enjoyed very much your two-part article on the $500 YJ project ("Why-J," March '09)! I don't have a YJ, but I do have an '85 XJ I've owned since new and have been gradually restoring. Since it has the venerable 2.5L motor, a lot of your article applies to me, including the high-reading oil pressure gauge, which I never figured out until now!
I do have one question. When I logged on to Crown Automotive's web site at crownautomotive.net I come up with their catalog but no way to order online. How did you do that? They say their products are only available thru authorized dealers?Bob Packervia e-mail
Sorry for the confusion on the Crown Automotive stuff. You do have to go through one of Crown's authorized distributors. You can't order directly from Crown. What I always do is check Crown's web site and write down my part numbers, then call a few of the authorized dealers for prices and go with which one is giving the best deals. Prices may vary slightly from time-to-time, but my advice would be to pick whichever two or three are closest to you to save shipping charges and go from there.
Misinformed
I recently acquired an '83 Cherokee two-door that is very solid. I'd like to upgrade the drivetrain. It is equipped with a six-cylinder engine, a T-177 four-speed transmission, 3.73 gears in the Dana 44 front axle and AMC 20 rear with one-piece shafts, and an NP208 T-case.
I understand that the Buick, Pontiac, Olds and Cadillac bellhousing pattern is the same as the AMC. If this is the case, with a 4-inch lift and 33-to-35-inch tires, what are my best swap options and what would be needed? I'd consider a Dana 44 swap for the rear if it would not stand up to a V-8 with those tires. I'm in Arizona, so I have no limitations on engine swaps to meet smog requirements.AnonymousVia e-mail
You're wrong about the BOPC engine bellhousing pattern being the same as an AMC. It isn't. You can bolt an AMC V-8 to your bellhousing, though. You'll need the V-8 engine brackets and motor mounts. Otherwise you'll be able to bolt an AMC 304, 360, or 401 in place of your 258 six-cylinder.
An AMC 360 is a really common engine in junkyards that responds well to modifications. I'd find a good, complete running 360 and would swap out the factory Motorcraft ignition and electronic distributor. I'd also consider adding an Edelbrock Performer or Performance RPM intake manifold and a 600cfm four-barrel carburetor to get it going. Later, if you feel the need for more power, I'd add a Competition Cams Xtreme Energy camshaft and maybe a set of aluminum Edelbrock cylinder heads for an easy 400hp.
Back the 360 with a T-18 from another FSJ and think about keeping the NP208. It's a good T-case. The FSJ AMC 20 rear axle is quite a different animal than the ones that came in CJs. They have much better housings and good shafts. If you add a locker I'd think about maybe upgrading to some aftermarket alloy axleshafts and keep the stock shafts as spares, but I don't think there's any need to go swapping the rear axle for use with only 33s or 35s.
It's a Scout Thing
I have a '77 CJ-5 with a 304, three-speed, Dana 20 T-case, Dana 44s from an International Scout, Selectro hubs, and a set of 36x14.50-15 Buckshot Mudders. It has a Lincoln locker in the rear and a used Truetrac up front that I bought at the junkyard for $70. Problem is, when I put it in 4x4, only the front right tire spins when I'm in the mud. I jacked the front of the Jeep up and turned the tire by hand and it made a clicking sound from inside the locker and both wheels would turn so I had a friend hold the left tire while I spun the right side and only one turns instead of both. Is the locker I bought junk or do I have a bad hub or something?
Also, ever since I put the Dana 44s under my Jeep the steering sucks. I did the spring-over instead of the 9-inch shackles that were on it when I bought it. It handles so much better now, but the steering makes me sick. The Jeep cuts OK to the right, but when turning to the left it barely turns at all, making it not very fun to drive. It acts like there is no more turning left in the steering box. How can I correct the steering problem? Should I save my money and buy hydraulic steering or a different steering box? If so which one? Either way I will be in trouble with the wife for spending more money.Eric KiddWhitley City, Kentucky
First of all, a Truetrac is a limited slip, not a locker. Jack it up and try your test again, only this time, watch the axleshaft through the knuckle. If the axleshaft is spinning along with the tire, then the limited slip is bad. If the axleshaft isn't spinning, then your hub is probably just put together incorrectly. I had that problem with one of my Jeeps. Took off the hub dial and reassembled the hub and it was fine.
As for your steering, I'd do a couple things first before I ordered up new steering box or ram-neither of which will fix the problem.
First, point the front tires directly straight and then remove the drag link from the pitman arm so you can check where your steering is centered. Turn the wheel all the way to full left lock for starters with the drag link unhooked. Then count the turns it takes to turn the wheel all the way to right full lock. If it takes (just as an example) 4.5 turns to go from left to right, then turn the wheel back 2.25-turns from right lock and the steering should be centered. Put a piece of tape or something on the top of your steering wheel in case you bump the pitman arm.
Second, with the steering centered crawl back under to make sure your drag link will hook up to the pitman arm. If it's too long or too short, hopefully there's enough adjustment in your tie rod ends to hook the drag link to the pitman arm. If not, you'll need to build or buy a new shorter/longer drag link.
Third, if the drag link is the correct length, you may need a longer pitman arm. Measure your current pitman arm and then head to the junkyard to see which GM vehicles have the longest pitman arm in the shape that may work for you. Most GM cars came with Saginaw power steering boxes that have the same sector shaft splines as the power steering box that came on your '77. If you've got manual steering, then the sector shaft won't fit the GM car pitman arms. A longer pitman arm will allow more turning radius. A shorter pitman arm will allow less turning radius.
Fourth, a Scout drag link attaches to the knuckle. Generally speaking, shortening the steering arm will have a similar, yet opposite effect on turning radius as lengthening the pitman arm. In other words, a shorter steering arm will equal more turning radius and a longer steering arm will equal less turning radius. The factory Scout drag link mount on the knuckle is in front of the tie rod mounts, effectively mimicking a pretty long steering arm on the knuckle. It's possible you're losing some steering throw thanks to this, which can be offset by the longer pitman arm mentioned above.
Fifth, make sure the drag link isn't binding on the spring pack or frame rail or anything else. If it's making contact anywhere it'll limit your steering radius.