Spring Whing Ding
I have an '01 XJ Cherokee that's bone-stock. I'm looking to cheaply lift it enough to put 16-inch Rubicon wheels and tires under it. One of your tech tips suggests putting Grand Cherokee coils up front. Would those need to be from a V-8 vehicle or does it matter? Any other suggestions would be appreciated.Mark WalkerValparaiso, Indiana
The ZJ coils will really only net you about 3/4-1-inch of lift. It's a better plan of attack to use a Rough Country or Rubicon Express 2-inch budget lift. Both kits use coil spacers up front and either a lift block or add-a-leaf in the rear. Both can be had for under $300 and neither requires steering or driveshaft corrections.
Although a 30x9.50 will fit more cleanly, the 2-inch budget boost should get you enough clearance to run the 31x10.50-sized 245/75-15 Rubicon tires and wheels since they're a bit narrower than a regular 31x10.50R15 tire.
Popper Power
In Christian Hazel's ongoing article "The $1,035 YJ" he mentions General Grabber AT2 tires in the April '09 issue. I have a bone-stock '91 YJ with the same four-bagger in it. I run 215/75R15 LT tires. What is his opinion of running 235/75R15 tires with the four-cylinder engine? Also, do you have any other comments on the tires?Skip SteinSugarloaf, California
Not having had anything smaller than 235/75R15 on my Jeep I can't comment on the performance difference between the 235s and your smaller 215s, but I can say I was pleased with the acceleration and highway performance of my '89 TBI 2.5L with the 235 tires. I have noticed with the larger 31x11.50s I'm currently running that the engine can't hold highway speeds in headwinds or up grades with the 4.10 gears, but with the 235/75-15s I was always able to cruise the freeway in Fifth gear and had little trouble negotiating mountain roads without losing speed. Keep in mind my YJ is pretty light (no carpet, console, etc.), but I don't think you'll be disappointed if you go for the larger size.
I do think that a 235/75R15 or even a 30x9.50 is the maximum size you can run with the factory 4.10 gears and still have anything resembling acceptable performance on road. Even with the smaller 31s I've found the need to step up to 4.88s. Check out the story, "Gearing Four Power" in this issue for more on this subject.
Weld On
I am currently underway with my first Jeep buildup and am a do-it-yourselfer. My '91 Wrangler's stock tranny blew out some gears (missing teeth like most of the residents in my town), so I pulled it. In its place I swapped in a Ford NP435 mated to a NP205 and now I can reap the benefits of a granny-low First gear and a nearly bulletproof tranny. I also took the front Dana 44 from the donor Bronco and fitted it with West Coast Differential 4.88s and a Detroit Locker. The rear has a Superior Super 35 kit with Detroit Locker for now.
Now I need to fab up a new skidplate, axles trusses, roll cage, and some other miscellaneous items. I don't have a welder, but I'm looking for some references on a cheap MIG welder to get the job done. I have done some stick welding in the past, but am in no way an experienced welder. Money is tight for me being that keeping the kids fed and the wife happy comes first, but I always sacrifice any spare time I have to this build and would like to get going on the welding side of things.
Can you explain the differences between different MIG Welders and their numbers? I'm guessing the numbers are ratings for more power/thicker metal to weld.Nick S.Cool, California
MIG welding is by far the easiest welding process you can do. Pull the trigger and just concentrate on your puddle. I've already covered a lot of the basics in selecting a MIG welder in the story, "Affordable Fab Tools" which you can find on our web site at http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/154_0811_affordable_fabrication_tools/index.html.
I know the prices may seem a little steep at $700 or so, but when you consider you're buying a tool you'll never outgrow for the life of your hobby and that will most likely last your entire life, it's a bargain. Don't buy a 110-volt welder that plugs into a standard household socket. The 220-volt models offer much better performance and higher duty cycles. You can weld longer without waiting for a cool-down period. If you've got an electric dryer, you've already got the outlet socket. If not, a qualified electrician shouldn't charge more than about $250 to run a new 220-volt circuit off your electrical panel into your garage.
Got a tech question you're just itching to get answered? Send it on in to Jp magazine, Your Jeep, 6420 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90048, or e-mail christian.hazel@jpmagazine.com.